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I have a nice shed in the backyard but every year wasp nests reappear in there. the shed has these 2x4 sized gaps between the roof and the side walls on the sides of the shed.

I saw a recommendation of using screen mesh, but what should I use to adhere the screen mesh to the shed?

My Shed with the gap at the top

  • I have seen apocryphal comments on the web that WD-40 works as a long term wasp repellent i.e. they won't return. Stinks to high heaven of course, It's a good way to get rid of unwanted WD-40 after you realize it's a terrible lubricant, terrible penetrating oil, and all the other purposes it's sold for. – Harper May 14 '17 at 0:00
  • @Harper, everyone knows that you need only two things to fix any problem. If it isn't supposed to move, apply duct tape. If it is supposed to move, apply WD-40. Are you saying I can eliminate half of my tools? – fixer1234 May 14 '17 at 1:54
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Wire mesh is a good idea in that it maintains the same level of ventilation offered by the current openings. Only you can decide of the ventilation is necessary or desired. I could see problems of blowing and drifting snow getting inside the shed in the winter time and if that is a problem then you may be up to eliminating the openings.

If you do decide to go the route of using the wire mesh then the best method of fastening cut and fitted pieces in place is to use staples. These come in a variety of forms depending upon how they are applied. There are staples that can be installed with a hammer which may be the simplest as you may very well already have a hammer. Many sizes are available. For mesh you will want ones that are fairly small with legs of say 1/2 to 5/8 inches long.

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Another type of staple is applied using a staple gun. These can be purchased fairly inexpensive and the staple gun for the type of staples may look something like below. The staples best to use for this application would have rounded tops and have legs 9/16 inch in length. Sometimes a staple gun like these will not sink the staple fully and if this happens just tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer.

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The third choice is to use a pneumatic brad nailer that is able to use staples. These are great because they shoot the staples in quickly and with enough force that they will be sunk way in. One slight disadvantage with many brad nailers with staples is that the staples are narrow and the nose of the gun does not typically have a guide to line up the staple over the wire of the mesh. So until you get the eye for it you may get some staples that do not bridge across the wires of the mesh.

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photos show examples only and are not meant to imply endorsement for any particular product

  • Thanks, I picked up a staple gun with associated staples as well as the mesh that prevents insect intrusion. I will update with the progress once I have a free weekend to attack this project. – Darxval May 22 '17 at 5:26
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The simplest solution is to put a flat molding (aka "screen molding") over the edge of the screen and staple through that into the shed. You get forearms like Popeye from working the staple gun, but won't accidentally put a hammer through the screen and odd angles aren't an issue.

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Cut some 1x4's to fit between the rafters to block off the inside. Caulk around the edges to seal. You could paint the exposed wood a light (haint) blue like they paint porch ceilings here in the South. If you need the ventilation I would use a wire mesh over some type of screen. If it was my shed I would put a fascia board, drip edge, and soffit to finish it out.

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Most wire mesh probably won't keep wasps out. You might want to consider using insect screening for windows. It should be cheaper than wire mesh, and do the job more easily. If it's wide enough, you could staple it to the rafters and wrap it around the edge to staple to the ends.

One note: it's hard to tell if your rafters are pressure-treated or not. If they are, be sure to use galvanized staples.

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