You know how people say "110V" all the time when they mean household power that is actually 120V? Well, 110, 115, 117.5, 120, 125... All refer to the same thing. This is due to a series of "bumps" the power companies have done over the decades to deliver more total power over the same wires. The next "bump" isn't scheduled, but it will be to 125V and the device manufacturers want to be ready.
You can always fit a GFCI receptacle provided you connect only one hot and one neutral to only the LINE terminals, and nothing to the LOAD terminals.
It can be tempting, if you have another hot+neutral pair coming into the junction box, to connect those to the LOAD terminals. After all, that's how the previous plain outlet was connected, with 2 hots and 2 neutrals connected to it. But there is nothing magical about this on a plain receptacle, those two "hot" screws are simply connected to each other so they are using the receptacle as a splice. There are plenty of other ways to do a splice. And if you want a GFCI to not be entangled in other wiring problems, you can pigtail a short hot and neutral off those splices so the GFCI is a "spur".
If they are telling you that you "can't use GFCIs" that is baloney. What they probably mean (but are unable to communicate) is that your house's wiring has jumbled up neutrals. That is to say, in modern wiring we rigidly keep hots and neutrals with each other, if a hot branches off, a neutral branches off with it, and any neutral serves only its partner hot. In the old days, they would grab any convenient neutral, and so a given hot may return via a different branch's neutral. This breaks GFCIs, which function by comparing current on hot and neutral and tripping on any current unaccounted for.
There's one other reason why promiscuous neutrals are bad. Generally, neutrals don't have circuit breakers. You could plug three different 12-amp heaters into three different circuits served by 3 different hots (so far so good, a 15A circuit can handle 12 amps) except unbeknownst to you, they all return on the same neutral... That neutral will overheat at 36 amps. And it's not on a breaker, so it doesn't trip.
If it was my house, I would slowly root out all the crossed neutrals. But on the meantime I'd get a subpanel, and feed neutral as one of the phases, with multipole breakers so neutral does indeed have a breaker... and move all the legacy circuits over to it. That would be me, I'm a bit nuts.