We (our local athletic association) bought a pre-built building, but we had to relocate one of the doors. We replaced the panel with a matching piece, but we're not sure how to finish it so that it matches the rest of the building. I guess the manufacturer is no longer reachable (which doesn't give me a great feeling), so we're left to guessing. Any ideas? Original is the yellower material on the left side and the thin strip on the top by the green metal roofing. The new panel is on the right (paler color).

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  • Which side is the top, left or right?
    – Michael Karas
    Apr 8, 2017 at 20:43
  • @Michael Karas I edited it to hopefully make it clearer
    – Joel Keene
    Apr 8, 2017 at 20:54
  • Was my question too hard to answer? The edit you did was nothing toward an answer to the question!!
    – Michael Karas
    Apr 8, 2017 at 20:58
  • @Michael Karas, sorry, no, your question was not read correctly by me, and also too quickly. Top is left
    – Joel Keene
    Apr 8, 2017 at 21:01
  • Thanks for clearing that up. I edited your question to properly orient your picture so that top is top. It is confusing to look at buildings sitting sideways unless it has been recently subjected to a tornado.
    – Michael Karas
    Apr 8, 2017 at 21:14

3 Answers 3


I would do the following, assuming you have some scraps from making the panel:

Print out the photo and take it, along with a small scrap, to your local store with outdoor paint stains. (big box, hardware, or paint store) and see if you can match the color. If you are lucky, a person there might be able to narrow down the choices based on the type of wood. Purchase a few of the smallest cans that might create the same results. On some of the scraps stain them with the different stains and let them dry. Compare them with the original stained piece. If they are not close enough, repeat the process.

If you still end up with differences, try getting it close and stain the new part of the door. Then apply a covering type stain over both the old and new.


It's resawn T-1-11 plywood exterior siding with 4" grooves. It comes in 4' x 8' sheets and 5/8" thickness (actual thickness is slightly thinner).

It is made of plywood veneers laid up in a 5-ply pattern and glued together. Then the top veneer is "resawn" to roughen the exposed face to give it a rustic appearance. Then grooves are cut into the face at 4" or 8" oc. to give it a "board" appearance.

It's made with shiplap edges (on the 8' side) so it can fit together to give it a uniform "board" appearance, but has a square edge top and bottom, (4' side) which usually has "Z" metal installed to flash the horizontal joints.

It's installed over a moisture barrier (building paper) because it leaks at the shiplap joints. The moisture barrier should be installed over a sub-sheathing, like 1/2" plywood, but some install it without the sheathing, (this is called "single-wall construction"). If you use single-wall construction, then studs should be 12" oc, (the net thickness of the siding is about 3/8" due to the grooves cut into it.) Otherwise it can be installed on studs at 16" oc or 24" oc with sub-sheathing.

It use to come in 9' and 10' lengths, but now only available in 8' lengths.

It has a high failure rate because the grooves are cut into the second ply, which has gaps in it, which allows moisture to lay in the gaps and rot the inner plus.

It is still available. Contact your local lumberyard or the APA, American Plywood Association.

  • 1
    I thought the question was about what kind of varnish (etc) is needed to make the colours match. Apr 8, 2017 at 21:25
  • Oops, I thought they wanted to match it.
    – Lee Sam
    Apr 8, 2017 at 23:08

I think the stuff on the left is pressure-treated (impregnated with chemicals to deter insects and rot), while on the right is the same material, but not treated. But I can't guarantee that. Photos can do funny things to colors.

If that's the case, then there's not much you can do besides removing the new piece you just added, and replacing it with equivalent PT material.

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