I replaced some old door knobs with new ones. The doors are perfectly fine. The new plates that went into the door frame are not a perfect fit. There's gap on one side of it that goes down into the old hole. I was thinking of filling the gap with wood fill or wood putty, although I'm not sure what the difference is. Is this the right approach?

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  • Did you try your new door knobs with the original striker plate on the door frame? Maybe that was an option even though the door knob kit came with a new one. – Michael Karas Mar 20 '17 at 10:56
  • The old striker plates won't work. – user44111 Mar 21 '17 at 20:58
  • 40 years of hanging doors and framing windows. This is tedious work. You will not likely find a striker plate to accomo – david bogdan Jul 28 '20 at 1:15

Now that you have posted a right nice picture of the new striker plate installation let me comment on this.

  1. The craftsman way to fix this is to cut out a section of the door frame where the old striker plate and its recess holes are located (plus some extra). Then a carefully cut and fitted new piece of wood is glued into place to make the door frame whole again.
  2. The new striker plate would be installed over the new wood region with the appropriate blind depth recess holes made behind it to permit the door catch and deadbolt enter the frame area beyond the striker plate.
  3. Note that it is not conventional practice to mount the striker plate on top of the surface of the door frame as you showed in the picture. The normal process is that the outline of the plate is marked and then some wood chisel work is done to recess the plate by an amount equal to its thickness so that its surface is even with the door frame surface.
  • Thanks. What your saying is helpful but doesn't answer the question. One problem with your response is part of the strike plate is bent. That edge of the striker is just about touching the outside part of the door frame. Chiseling would be overkill and likely to cause more problems. I reality once I get everything prepared (wholes filled, sanded) and repainted that edge is going to be flush to the outer frame. – user44111 Mar 23 '17 at 10:43
  • This is a learning experience. I realize the striker plate should be flush with the inner frame, and maybe I'll cut part of that flap. As you can probably tell these are mortise knobs. I ordered them online. Doesn't appear to be much of a market for them now. So I'm working with what I have. – user44111 Mar 23 '17 at 10:49
  • And I guess as a final response, in regards to "Then a carefully cut and fitted new piece of wood is glued into place to make the door frame whole again." I'm still working on my craftsman skills. If I can't cut a perfect piece to fit in (maybe it's a little to swallow), what to I use to fill in the extra space? – user44111 Mar 23 '17 at 10:53
  • A craftsman would cut into the door frame to a depth of say a quarter to a third of the jamb board thickness. The cut out pocket would extend from the door stop out to the edge of the jamb. Height of the pocket needs to be at least as high as the existing holes in the jamb. Depth really should be enough so that it exceeds the depth of the old holes so that the pocket offers as large of glue surface as possible. The pocket is then filled with a piece of wood similar to the jamb wood that is carefully cut to fit snug into the pocket. (continued) – Michael Karas Mar 23 '17 at 11:37
  • (continued from above) The fitted piece is then glued into the pocket using a quality carpenters wood glue. It would be necessary to clamp the piece in place as the glue dries. The clamp for pressing the piece down into the pocket could be a piece of wood cut to just the right length to wedge from across the door opening from the opposite side of the jamb. In your case the added wood piece looks like it wants to be taller than the height of that new strike plate. – Michael Karas Mar 23 '17 at 11:44

You can fill that void between the strike plate and door stop with Durhams Rock Hard Putty. It's a powder that you mix with water. Fill that area so the putty is higher than the jamb surface and you will be able to sand it down to smooth when dry. A bit of primer over the putty and you'll be ready for paint.


So add wood putty because you can always chip out when you have needs to adjust striker due to inevitable heat/cool expansion/ contraction.


Most locksets are adjustable from about 1 3/8" up to 1 3/4" thick doors. (See screw mechanism in center of unit.) If yours is not or door is less than 1 3/8" thick, the piece of door hardware you're looking for is called a "door rose". It fits between the knob and the door and comes in various shapes, thicknesses and finishes. Google: rose hardware door with lock

If you can't find it on your own, try Emtek.com. Very reputable, but bad website. I can't ever find a thing. Call them...excellent service.

  • we need a photo of the " plates in the door frame" . it is hard to understand just what you mean. – Alaska Man Mar 20 '17 at 3:34
  • @LeeSam - I believe that the OP is talking about the striker plate on the door frame. – Michael Karas Mar 20 '17 at 10:55
  • Hmmm...I see. Ummm...what is OP? (I'm new to this.) – Lee Sam Mar 20 '17 at 15:42
  • Sorry, striker plate. I should have looked up door terminology. I just posted a picture. – user44111 Mar 21 '17 at 20:58
  • Oh, I see now. When you talk to Emtek, tell them you want, "a closed box strike". And send this picture. I bet they'll be able to give (sell) you a new strike plate to cover the opening too. They just need some measurements. – Lee Sam Mar 21 '17 at 21:07

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