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I have an antique cabinet and the doors are coming off. The top and the bottom hooks there to the doors are no longer holding the doors in place. The doors are supposedly inset and are having a thickness of 1 inch.

Cabinet door coming off

I did some research online and understood that for inset cabinets, the de-facto choice seems to be the usage of euro hinges.

However, I feel that this could be problematic in my case because the euro hinges require a 0.35mm diameter cup and boring this sized cup into a 1 inch thick cabinet could have a greater chance of breaking the door itself.

I may be wrong, not sure.

Could anyone advise if euro hinges are the way to go or if there are euro hinges that can suit a cup which wont break a 1 inch thick door or should I stick to the traditional hinges like these?

2 Answers 2

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Euro hinges are routinely used on doors that are 3/4" thick, so that is not a problem. However, the cup must be cut fairly precisely, usually by a drill press to ensure alignment and depth limit. Without such a tool, most DIYers would use conventional mortised or no-mortise hinges.

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  • After looking at your answer, I re-checked my cabinet door and it was not 1 inch as I originally posted. It was only 0.5'' thick. So, I was finally able to fix my cabinet doors using the inset hinges - homedepot.com/p/… from home depot. thanks.
    – Satya
    Apr 20, 2017 at 17:49
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It is hard to be conclusive from the photo, but it appears that originally the doors pivoted on a set of pins. bib is correct about the euro hinges and there are inset euro hinges that simply screw into both the door and the side of the cabinet. They are typically used in corner cabinets.

I am wondering why the existing hinges failed. With the pin setup, it is usually because the hole in the top or bottom of the cabinet blew out or the pin in the door failed. Either way, perhaps it would be easier and cheaper to repair the pin setup. If the hole blew out on the cabinet, you could cut a small piece of aluminum bar stock and drill 3 holes in it. The center hole would be to receive the pin and the other 2 would be for screws. You will want to drill for countersinking the screws. Then just mortise a cavity for the aluminum plate with a chisel and you are on your way. If it is the pin that failed on the door, you may be able to drill it out deeper and use a longer pin, repair the damaged area, again with aluminum bar stock, or some combination of those solutions.

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