I have a stand-up shower with two knobs (one for hot, one for cold). The shower drips non-stop, what is amazing to me is that the shower drips even when you are using it to take a shower!

This is an image of similar set-up of how the shower appears, what actions could I take to prevent it from constantly dripping from the shower head?
Shower Photo

Let me add that the shower drips from the "head" not coming from the knobs. The shower head seems to have a very slow/steady trickle coming from one of the "holes" that is just enough to pool on the outer lip of the head and drip down constantly.

  • It's normal for shower heads to drip when in use. Some water sticks to the face and runs down. Your valves need repair to stop the drip when it's not in use, though. Please update your post with more detail about that. – isherwood Mar 15 '17 at 14:49

You have two issues.

The first is the dripping when the shower is off. Most likely your gaskets are worn and need to be replaced, though it could be another issue in the valves such as worn valve seats. These gaskets are rubber parts inside your hot and cold water valves (and possibly in your diverter valve) that prevent water flowing through. There are valve replacement kits available at hardware stores for many common brands. The process is a little different for different faucets though, so ideally you would identify the brand you've got and look for guidance on that specific brand.

Next the dripping when the shower is on. A few things this could be:

  • Dripping from where the shower head attaches to the shower arm. This is a sign of poor connection of the shower head, and can often be fixed by tightening. Only hand-tighten here because most shower heads are plastic and can break, and because you don't want to strip the threads on that shower arm. If that doesn't help, check that the shower head isn't already cracked, and check the gasket in the shower head that seals it to the arm.
  • Dripping from the face of the shower head when it's on. This is normal, as @isherwood commented. If it's severe then maybe some of the shower head's outlets have mineral blockages. Clean/soak with vinegar or CLR to unblock.
  • Dripping from the tub faucet after you've diverted water to the shower. Some dripping is probably normal depending on your shower fixture, most say a pencil-width stream is OK. If it's much more than that, or has gotten significantly worse over time, then the issue is likely worn gaskets in your diverter valve.

For more specific guidance, please identify your fixture brand and specific issue(s). Good luck!

  • I have no idea what fixture brand it is. It has been installed for 20+ years and up until 2 days ago worked flawlessly. – BellHopByDayAmetuerCoderByNigh Mar 15 '17 at 15:13
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    Then, you'll have to shut off the water to the shower (or the whole house) and remove the shower valve stems, and take them to a store for replacement washers. If the washers are in good shape, or replacement doesn't fix them, then you need to inspect the valve seats and possibly regrind them. Hmm... I'd need some references to explain that better... – DaveM Mar 15 '17 at 18:17
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    The above comments are assuming that your valves are the old rubber "washer" seal against a metal seat. Your shower may have a newer type with a "cartridge" which is replaced as a unit. You won't know until you remove the stem assembly. If you have never done this, don't confuse a packing nut with the larger hexagonal faces which remove the entire valve stem assembly. Before removing the stem assembly shut off the water at a cut-off to the shower or for the whole house, open a valve on the lavatory to drain out water, open the shower valve at least part way, then unscrew the stem assembly. – Jim Stewart Mar 15 '17 at 20:52
  • If valve seats are bad, it is best to change them. There are Youtube videos on how to do all this, but some people who make OK videos are wrong on one or two things. If you do change the (threaded in) valve seats, you should definitely not use Teflon tape on the threads for the seats. A loose flap of the tape can hang out over the seat and prevent sealing. A small amount of pipe dope may not hurt but it's really not necessary. The flat of the seat overhanging the valve body is where the seal is accomplished (not in the threads). Just snug the seats in firmly, but not overtight – Jim Stewart Mar 15 '17 at 22:37
  • In some cases, e.g. Symmons Temptrol valves which are popular in the Northeast US, cartridges can be replaced or disassembled and repaired. Details vary a lot by brand, unfortunately. – Shimon Rura Mar 16 '17 at 14:36

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