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I removed a fiberglass shower/bath combo and I wish to replace it with a TileRedi shower pan. 42x60 right drain. the problem is, the spec drawing shows the center of the drain to be 6 inches away from the edge. My current p trap is 2.5 inches away from the wall.

Can anyone think of any way that i can make the piping fit the new drain location that'll be 6 inches away? The top of the p trap is about 5 inches below the floor where the pan will rest.

Thank you !!!

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I wasn't able to solve the p-trap relocation, but this what I have so far.

  • That should be an answer, @Alaskaman. I believe the trap is just sitting on top of some dirty insulation. Bottom line is you need a different pipe layout to get to the desired spot, and there is no magic flexible solution you can use here. You definitely want this all rigid and glued firmly because it's permanently enclosed in a floor/ceiling. – Shimon Rura Mar 15 '17 at 15:12
  • Yes, @ShimonRurais correct, it's just some insulation (same stuff that goes behind drywall in walls) I can definitely remove the p-trap. However, how can i make that tight turn ? I cannot modify the pipe that comes out of a joist and connects to the p-trap. So what are my options ? I understand that the flexible pipe (the one that can be used under a sink) is not applicable in this situation, but what is ? I need to make a turn above 90 degree here to come back to the 6 inch mark.. Thank you, gentlemen. – toyrunr Mar 15 '17 at 17:19
  • I am not seeing the possible answer Shimon rura is referring to? It looks like there is a hub or splice there already. Useing plastic from the splice and a new nohub / fernco coupler you could get creative and make up a new drain. – Ed Beal Mar 15 '17 at 19:11
  • If you click into the full-size photo you can see that it's actually two Fernco couplers. This shouldn't be a challenge at all, and I personally would use welded PVC fittings instead of the rubber parts. – isherwood Mar 15 '17 at 19:58
  • @isherwood can you elaborate a bit. Are you referring to Fernco couplers that connect the p-trap to the other pipe ?? If so, then how does this make things easier ? Thank you !!! – toyrunr Mar 15 '17 at 21:12
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I know you are trying to do this your self so i will throw some spaghetti at the wall and see if it sticks.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: YOU PROBABLY NEED A REAL PLUMBER.

Duct Tape a piece of cardboard over the hole in the floor ( larger than the opening ) and then place a template ( or the pan for that mater ) on top of that then mark the hole location with a sharpie on lower paper and then cut that hole out of the cardboard. Remove the template/pan, you now have the piece of cardboard over the hole with a hole in it that is were the drain should be. Leave one side of the cardboard taped so you can hinge it in and out of place.

You may be able to use a short turn 90 degree elbow coming of the shower drain bell to a short peace of pipe and the either a street 90 or short 90/pipe into the P trap. The Template will help with lining it all up if you know the height or the shower pan drain bell. Get a bunch of fittings and pipe to cut into short pieces and play around with it. Its going to take a lot of thinking and trial and error. Maybe it is something compleatly different like 45 degree fittings and ???

NOW having said all that , you will not be able to make any connections ( I.E. glue any fittings ) after the pan in place and that means you need exact precision and placement of the fittings so that when the pan is put down into place the bell lines up and the plumbing is at the correct height. That means dry fitting EVERYTHING and putting the pan in place and checking it.

REMEMBER: distance or measured pipe length's change from dry fitting to wet gluing. DON'T SHORT YOURSELF

I do not know anything about your pan or bell and what height it will be, and even if i was there it would tax my brain to figure it out.. ( I CHARGE BY THE HOUR )

Good luck and remember you did not pay for this "advise" If it works i am a genius and if not it is your fault. :)

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  • I haven't bought the new pan yet, because I wanted to make sure that it'll fit the job, and the drain location is the #1 obstacle, at least at the moment. I do have the exact dimensions of the pan (from their schematic) so i'll cut up a cardboard piece and emulate it and will do what you said. How do connections change from dry to final ? do they shrink ? expand ? Thank you. – toyrunr Mar 15 '17 at 21:13
  • I seems to me the easiest solution is to plumb the drain and have a custom pan fabricated or floated in place. – Alaska Man Mar 17 '17 at 17:24
  • "plumb the drain" ?? The pipe that connects to p-trap at the moment is at a weird angle... 45 degrees?? I can't find any pipe fittings that can correct that and allow me to meet the drain at 6 inches from the wall. There are no 45 degree fittings. only 90. The alternative is to leave the pipe as is and use Schluter product KERDI - LINE it matches up perfectly, but i'd have to assemble the pan from various parts. Tileredi is 1 plastic tray that just lays down in the spot. – toyrunr Mar 18 '17 at 18:27
  • Never mind, i just found a few 45 degree elbows. We'll see how this goes. – toyrunr Mar 18 '17 at 18:41

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