Grounding Electrode System
You're going to have to install a grounding electrode system. This is typically done by driving two ground rods spaced at least 6' apart, and connecting the rods together using a properly sized bonding jumper. Then you'll install a properly sized grounding electrode conductor, from one of the ground rods back to the main grounding bus in the main panel.
Bonding Water Piping
You may be able (required) to use the abandoned underground copper pipe as a grounding electrode, if it meets the criteria specified in the code. If the water is supplied to the building through metal pipe, you'll also have to bond the metal supply pipe to the grounding electrode system using a properly sized bonding jumper.
If the plumbing within the building will not be metallic, you don't have to bond it.
Bonding Gas Piping
As for bonding the gas pipe, according to the National Electrical Code, metal piping systems that are "likely to become energized" must be bonded (250.104(B)). So if you have a gas water heater that has no electrical connection, then you don't have to bond the gas piping. If you have a gas fired furnace, then it's possible that you'll have to bond the gas piping.
However, the bonding jumper only has to be sized to the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping. NEC also allows you to bond the piping to the equipment grounding conductor, of the circuit that is likely to energize it. Which means the gas pipe feeding the furnace, can be bonded to the equipment grounding conductor feeding the furnace. And if the gas piping is isolated from the furnace electrical (not likely to become energized), you don't have to bond the piping at all.
In the case of the gas/electric range, again you can use the equipment grounding conductor of the circuit feeding the appliance, to bond the gas piping (if required).