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Lower floor is tiled. Higher floor is plywood on some sleepers with laminate wood flooring on top. The difference in height is 1-3/4". I didn't take a picture but it's 3/4" furring strips as sleepers, 3/4" plywood subfloor and then laminate flooring on top with underlayment. The transition is at a doorway and the tile floor is right at the transition. The transition comes up at a 90 degree angle from the tile.

I was asked if I could help find a solution. Not much they could have really done to keep the height less I'm told.

Is there some product that can be purchased to handle this?

Otherwise I think building a small ramp out of 2x material and nailing some of the laminate on top is the only thing I can think of. Are there any requirements/best practices as far as slope? They'd like the ramp to be as short as possible while still resolving the trip hazard that's there.

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  • Please upload a picture of the floor you're trying to fix.
    – M.Mat
    Mar 8, 2017 at 5:19
  • A nearly identical question: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/109935/…
    – isherwood
    Mar 8, 2017 at 21:26
  • @isherwood that question doesn't really have the answer I'm looking for. I know that 1/2" is the maximum allowable difference between floor heights but I can't find any info on acceptable slopes other than for wheelchair ramps and the biggest slope I can have for unoccupied wheelchair ramps is 14.5 degrees. Was wondering if there was any recommendation on slope Mar 9, 2017 at 17:42
  • Well, you're asking several distinct things in your post, so you should probably simplify to one.
    – isherwood
    Mar 9, 2017 at 23:05
  • My front walk is 11 degrees because that is how much room I had and did not want stairs. I have pushed a wheelchair up ( and down ) many time and 11 degrees is a LOT of slope. Dec 22, 2018 at 18:06

2 Answers 2

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This is what I wound up doing and it's working fine and walking through that doorway is now comfortable and no risk of tripping.

I ripped a 2x6 board diagonally from corner to corner which created about a 15 degree incline. Made some additional notches on the sides so it fit in the doorway but the ramp extended a little on the sides. I used Tapcons to secure it to the concrete floor.

Cut a piece of laminate flooring to fit over top of the ramp. I cut the front and back at an angle to get a tighter fit against the existing laminate on top and tile on the bottom. Then secured it in place with nails and adhesive. Caulked around the seams and joints and added a seam binder molding over the seam. Similar to T-molding but just the top part.

No more trip hazard and the ramp is comfortable to walk over. Since the new high floor was set back into the doorway it doesn't stick out past the door frame much to cause a concern but if you're trying this and that's an issue you can bevel the sides as well.

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  • Should've been two feet long, ripped lengthwise. It's not a trip hazard, but I'm guessing you don't step on the 6" of incline; that's not big enough for someone's foot. A two foot deep step doesn't require railings; that's the kind of setup I'd be looking for, like how landings for staircases and doors are 3'. With only 6" your stride has to bridge it. Two feet long gives you space for one or two steps in between the two transitions.
    – Mazura
    Oct 15, 2022 at 15:14
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Without seeing the floor, makes the question tougher to answer but that said, there are transition strips to compensate for differing height floors. There isn't a commercial one made that will accommodate that height difference but you may be able to buy one of these strips and double it using a layered technique.flooring transitions these strips reducer

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