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I just removed a fiberglass tub/shower alcove and with to create a walk in shower. I need to relocate the drain, to the center of the alcove. I also need to get rid of the "periscope" part of the pipe. Should i cut it really close to the bend and try to cap it ? I have no idea. This is a condo unit - 2nd floor. What you see is what you get. It's a 2 inch copper pipe.

What is the best way to modify this pipe and relocate it to the center ? I think i'll use a plastic extension to get to the center of the space, but what should i do with the periscope ? I don't think i can remove the entire structure / assembly because i don't have access anywhere lower into the floor (i don't think i do). Is there an easy way to take the pipes apart ? "break" all the connections ?

alcove

Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated. Also, anyone user Schluter KERDI products to create their walk in shower ? I'd like to use that (over hot mopping)

Thank you for your time.

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  • I'm not sure if I'm correct, but I believe that the overflow pipe ("periscope") is considered a vent as far as plumbing code is concerned. If this is true, you may not have another vent nearby, which could cause drainage problems. Hopefully someone will comment on this? – bitsmack Mar 7 '17 at 17:44
  • do you have a walk-in shower at home ? Ever seen one ? There is no overflow there. If the drain backups up, you simply overflow to the curb (and above) – toyrunr Mar 7 '17 at 19:13
  • I'm sorry, you misunderstand my concern. You are correct about the overflow aspect. But I was talking about venting; that is, allowing air into the drain pipe so that the water flows correctly. Generally, in the wall, there is a vent pipe next to the drain pipe. I was concerned that this vent may not have been installed originally if code allowed the overflow to also act as a vent. – bitsmack Mar 7 '17 at 19:20
  • Hmmm, i never thought/knew about that. So would such a vent go inside the wall ? It won't create vacuum being wedges between drywalls. (i'm guessing) and it'll be taller than the curb in the shower so the water will never actually get out of it in case of a total back up (in any unit / space below mine ) Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I'll look up to see if/how others have done it. I haven't seen anything in the YT videos so far. got a link ? Thanks again – toyrunr Mar 7 '17 at 23:46
  • Here's a picture from the web. Notice that, in this picture, there is a (green) vent pipe near the "tub trap". If your house is built like this, then there's no problem. But I was told that older plumbing code didn't require bath tubs to be vented because the overflow pipe acted as a vent... So, if you don't have the vent pipe, I wonder if your new shower will have drainage issues. I think I'll ask go ask the question here on the Stack :) I'll come back with a link to the question... – bitsmack Mar 8 '17 at 0:07
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You can custom make a shower bed to utilize your drain location Or possibly find one Off the shelf, you can a standard drain or a trough drain. i have seen drains in many locations of all types and have never heard of a code specific to its location.

There is a code concerning the distance of the drain from the vent, so if you do move the drain you will need to know that code distance and where your vent is.

( I AM NOT AN EXPERT, I JUST PLAY ONE ON STACK EXCHANGE )

If you don't have access to underneath the floor you will not be able to move it unless you plan on putting in step up shower bed. It appears you can cut the flooring within the wood framing to access the connection of the brass to he main drain. You will need to see how the brass is attached to the trap in order to know how to go about disconnecting it. i can not tell what the rest of your flour is made of nor do i know the regulations of your condo.

Let us know once you have done some exploratory surgery on your floor.

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  • I thought that centering the drain was a MUST according to code ?! I live in Irvine California. You're correct, I have to build a curbed shower. The periscope has to go away (there won't be an overflow). I'll try to open up the floor (drywall sheets) within the box as you mentioned. Any idea how to disconnect the brass piece from the main pipe, as you said ? Thank you for your time. – toyrunr Mar 7 '17 at 17:57
  • I have never heard of a requirement for a shower drain to be located in the centre of a shower, however I’m not from California. Regardless, you’re going to need to open the floor around the old tub drain assembly (at minimum, the blocked out section in your photo). Then you can cut out the old tub drain and overflow assembly and make you connection to your new drain. Depending on what the pipe arraignment is like within the joist space, you can cut the old upstream of the trap or downstream of the trap as long as you install a new trap. – pdd Mar 8 '17 at 2:37
  • I've removed the periscope and the other section and the cast iron pipe is below. I think i can not "build" a drain at whatever location I need. I'd rather not make it in the center as i'd have to break apart all that cement. plus i like the hidden drain style that comes with 1 sided shower membranes. I'll go to city and get a permit (or see if i even need one) and see what they say. THANK YOU AGAIN !!!! – toyrunr Mar 8 '17 at 19:54
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I am not sure if I'm following correctly. I can say that the purpose of the 2×4 box is to allow you to move the center of the drain within that box using whatever fittings appropriate. The box is there so the center of the center of the drain can be moved to fit a tub without serious modifications. If your moving the drain outside that box then u would have to break the concrete and modify the pipe anywhere you would want it. I have never installed copper drain pipes but they need to be sweated, or you can transition to pvc using a rubber fernco fitting make sure it's on there tight.

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  • To undo the copper you either melt the solder with a hand held propane or map gas torch or cut it with a sawsaz, grinder, hack saw, whatever gets the job done. – Frank Lagana Jan 2 '19 at 14:46

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