I have some switches that are a little further from a door frame than I'd like (because I intend to put cabinetry on that wall and the switch might be in the way). I've seen the 25% notching restriction for load-bearing studs, but I am not sure about studs that frame doors and about lateral notches, as you would use to move the work box left.

While I don't know with certainty, it appears the stud framing the door is quite wide, so I shouldn't be notching more than 25% of width anyway. The attached pictures should clarify.

Switch on Wall with Adjacent Door

Close Up View of Upper Wall Cutout

Interior View of Upper Wall Cutout

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    You won't hurt anything going as deep as halfway into the king stud. If you go more than that you won't fit a plate anyway. I'd only notch as deep as you need to for the box you're using. Running a spade bit in from the front works well. – isherwood Feb 22 '17 at 2:25
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    Note that doors (and windows) are typically framed with 2 studs on each side, not a single wide stud. – mmathis Feb 22 '17 at 3:06
  • Is there a reason the switch can't be old-worked into the cabinet door with a strain-relieved cordage loop to the existing box? Or mounted in the side of the cabinet for that matter? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 22 '17 at 3:17
  • @ThreePhaseEel I don't want the cabinet housing any electrical wiring. If I understand you correctly, some wiring would be in the cabinet. – Hari Ganti Feb 22 '17 at 3:22
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    @HariGanti -- yes, you understand me correctly -- I just wanted to throw that out there as an option, but I understand if that doesn't fit your requirements. – ThreePhaseEel Feb 22 '17 at 3:57

Usually doors and windows had two studs on each side ( cripple and King cripple ) if this is the case you should cut no more than half way into the King cripple. From your picture either the door is slid over to one side of the rough opening, has blocks nail to the King cripple, or you have a stud next to the cripplebbecause of layout. I say this because of how much space you have between the switch and the trim. If you could determine if is just blocks cut away as much as you need. If it is a stud or the door is slid over I would check into some Slim-line boxes. These boxes are not as deep as regular boxes this way you can just notch a smaller depth letting you notch a wider width and keep the strength.

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    "Cripple stud" (a term I no longer use for personal reasons) refers to the fillers above the header, not the stud supporting the header. – isherwood Oct 6 '17 at 20:03
  • I would call these Jack and King studs but perhaps the terms are used differently in different places? I agree it looks as though there is space for three 2x4's here. Would be nice if you can cite building code for cutting half way into the king stud on a load bearing wall. Here's a link that may help the OP to visualize what to expect behind the drywall: finehomebuilding.com/2001/03/15/anatomy-of-a-stud-framed-wall – Stanwood Feb 9 '18 at 2:38

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