enter image description herekick board with nothing between it and concrete is rotting. What can I do?

  • Any gap at all between the concrete and the sheathing? You're going to need to pull the j-channel along the bottom, so go ahead and do it.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 20, 2017 at 18:50
  • J channel has been removed. Contractor poured steps right against the sheathing, no gap. Just unsure on what steps to take after the fact. Cannot believe what a easy and cheap thing to do prior as to just add a simple barrier.
    – Jay
    Commented Feb 20, 2017 at 22:54
  • FYI, this below a sliding patio door, the wood you see nailed to house sheathing which does a have a barrier, so hopefully
    – Jay
    Commented Feb 20, 2017 at 22:59

1 Answer 1


Well, you aren't going to keep all the water out. The builder should've applied a water barrier before pouring the concrete. You'll have to decide whether the sheathing is degraded enough that you need to replace it. Here's what I'd do (after letting everything dry out well):

  1. Procure some flexible waterproof membrane such as ice and water shield or window flashing tape. It should be gummy on the back side so it bonds to itself and seals around fasteners.
  2. Apply it to the sheathing along the concrete, tight to the joint. Use staples along the top and wherever needed to hold it securely to the sheathing. It should run up the wall at least 6" or whatever space is available.
  3. Caulk the membrane/concrete joint with a high-quality caulk. Silicone is ok. Latex is not. Urethane is better. Create a substantial, coved bead, but try to keep it small enough that it'll be hidden under the j-channel. Use masking tape on the concrete 1/2" away from the sheathing if you like.
  4. Reinstall your siding.
  • Thank you Isherwood. The wood is pretty soft where it meets the concrete. My concern is I'm assuming it's very soft behind the step where I can't see it and not sure if or how long it will take to dry out. The problem with trying to replace the wood is that the concrete abuts right next to the sheathing, so it doesn't leave any room to try and get the old sheathing out. I would prefer to replace it, but don't know if that's feasible. Maybe since it's exposed now it will dry in time as long as I can keep the rain off of it. Your solution would be the least painful, I'll just have see if it drys
    – Jay
    Commented Feb 21, 2017 at 19:41
  • I understand. You'd have to remove and replace the steps to do anything about it, though. If you have an unfinished basement you may be able to apply some backing material from the inside.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 21, 2017 at 19:49

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