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I recently purchased a washer/dryer set at auction. I was in need of a new set due to troubles with our current washer and wasn't all that happy with it when it was working. So, I when I found a Miele set available through an auction, I decided that I had to have them. It turns out that this series of Miele washer, the Touchtronic 1119, has a plug identical to the dryer.

Adding another circuit to the breaker panel is not an option, so I figured that I was SOL. However, after doing some research, I learned that Miele used to sell a 240v/30amp splitter, which didn't make a whole lot of sense to me.

I found the manuals online. Each brochure states that the appliances only need 15 amps. Links and excerpts below:

From the dryer manual:

The dryer comes with a 5 ft long, 12/4 AWG cord and a NEMA 14-30 P plug. It should be connected to a 120/208-240 V, 15 A, 60 Hz AC power supply. A 3 pole-4 wire grounding power outlet (NEMA type 14-30 R) is necessary.

https://www.mieleusa.com/forms2/us/sa/manuals-125.aspx?mNo=06610660&asDownload=1

From the Washing machine manual:

The washing machine is supplied with a 5’ 3" (1.6 m) long, 4 wire cord, ending in a NEMA 14-30 P plug, ready for connection to a 120/208-240 V, 15 A, 60 Hz, AC power supply.

https://www.mieleusa.com/forms2/us/sa/manuals-125.aspx?mNo=06523260&asDownload=1

With information collected from the brochure, I was able to find some images of the "splitter" from an old ebay auction. The seller, thankfully, opened the box to show the internals. See below:

Miele 240v, 30 amp splitter:

External:

outside of splitter

Internal: inside of splitter

I'm in no way an electrician, but that looks fairly simplistic. If I were to build my own, these are the parts that I would buy.

  • Replacement dryer cable.
  • Metal project box.
  • 2 NEMA 14-30R outlets
  • Screw terminal, twist connectors, or 3 wire connectors.
  • 3AB 15 Amp Fuses and holder!?

Having reviewed the image a few times, I have to ask:

Q1: Are the fuses be necessary with the existing 30 amp breaker?

Q2: And, if they are not necessary, then can I just add a second receptacle to the existing one?

One of the details that I have yet to mention was that the washing machine came with an outlet. It looks like the owner just ripped it out of the wall. I had planned to discard, but after doing all of this research, I wonder:

Q3: Did the previous owners have the same "Just add a second outlet" idea??

As I see it, these are my options:

  1. Add a second receptacle inline with the dedicated dryer outlet.
  2. Build my own splitter.
  3. Wait for another "splitter" to become available, at a reasonable price.
  4. Bite the bullet, add a breaker and run an extra dedicated line.

Q4: What are the issues and risks with the above options? Possibly illegal? (I ordered them from cheapest to most expensive; I'd expect that the order is, also, riskiest to least risky.)

The inside of the dryer receptacle box (it's a 10-30R) is shown below.

inside of dryer receptacle box

  • 1
    Where on Earth are you? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 19 '17 at 23:00
  • 1
    What type of receptacle do you have for your current dryer? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 19 '17 at 23:23
  • 1
    Oof. Can you turn off your dryer breaker and post a photo of the innards of the box for the dryer outlet? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 19 '17 at 23:50
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    That silver-colored wire inside the box runs up into the cable, right? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 20 '17 at 0:21
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    The 10-30R wires a neutral instead of the ground, yes. – ThreePhaseEel Feb 20 '17 at 0:36
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First step: receptacle replacement

Your existing receptacle is a 10-30R. This will need to be replaced with a 14-30R in order to plug either of your new appliances in. Furthermore, it appears you have aluminum wiring, so this will be a bit trickier than usual, but not impossible for a DIY job. Of course, if you are more comfortable calling in an electrician to deal with this, they'll be able to take care of it without too much trouble, and may be able to bring better stuff to bear on this job than you can.

For doing this yourself, you'll want:

  • A NEMA 14-30R receptacle of the flushmount type
  • Some short lengths of 10AWG copper THHN (black/red/white/bare if you want to insist on color codes, or you can use white as a universal donor with some tape flags for hots and wire stripping for the bare ground) for pigtailing the receptacle.
  • 3 port Al7Cu or Al9Cu insulated screw lugs rated for 8AWG/10AWG wire
  • Anti-oxidant compound if called for by the connectors used
  • And a torque screwdriver, as the requirement for it got added in the 2017 NEC (you can get one at the orange borg or online for $60 these days)

Once you have the breaker off, you can undo and pull out the existing receptacle, and also undo the ground from the box lug at this point. Toss the old receptacle as you won't need any more of it. Fit the cut and stripped pigtails to the new receptacle, using your torque screwdriver to torque things down to specification. If called for in the connector instructions, apply anti-oxidant compound to the ends of the existing wires. Then, use the screw lugs to connect the pigtails to the existing wires, matching the pigtails up with the corresponding wires and using the torque screwdriver to torque the terminal screws down to specification. Stuff everything into the box (it may be tight) and screw the new receptacle in before turning the power back on and using a meter to check your work for the correct voltages.

Now: time for two 30A receptacles on one 30A circuit

There is absolutely nothing in the NEC that prohibits placing two 30A receptacles on the same 30A branch circuit. Neither 210.21(B)(3) nor 210.23(B) forbid this -- in fact, you could say that the Code explicitly provides for this exact case (otherwise there wouldn't be a line for 30A receptacles in Table 210.21(B)(3)).

Unfortunately, I don't know enough about how your house is built or where you want the 2nd receptacle on your wall to be able to instruct you further here. (This job will likely require you to tear out a bit of drywall, too.) The instructions above will leave you in a good position to do it or have an electrician do it, though.

Bonus! Your breaker box should be replaced at the earliest opportunity available!

You have a Zinsco panel -- while they don't quite have the sordid failure history of FPE's line of non-breakers, Zinscos should be replaced at the earliest opportunity available as their track record is poor, relative to something like a CH or a QO.

  • As of last week only 1 state in the U.S has adopted the 2017 code , I will wait until my state statues and or adoption ( November) to see if need new torque drivers and a calibration standard for adjustable ones. Just having a craftsman or other brand may not do it and be a waste of $ for what is worth. – Ed Beal Feb 20 '17 at 2:34
  • I noticed the "silver", aluminium ground wire. Does that indicate that the house was built in the 1940s-50s? I can't think of any other time that there was copper rationing. – sanscore Feb 20 '17 at 4:04
  • @sanscore -- right idea, wrong time period -- it was during the 60s and 70s that aluminum wire was used – ThreePhaseEel Feb 20 '17 at 4:14
  • A quick question about the Miele device. Is it simply a power strip for a 240v/30amp outlet? – sanscore Feb 20 '17 at 6:34
  • @sanscore -- you could say so, yeah – ThreePhaseEel Feb 20 '17 at 12:37

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