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I have a problem similar to Why do my LED lights stay on, even when the switch is off? except that one of the lights in question is not attached to any switches that might cause the ghosting effect, but to a normal wall socket (the light kit has its own remote-control switch).

I also have a ghosting effect on another LED lightstrip attached to a switch, making me think that the reason is not in the strips or switches, but in the wiring of the house. I suspect that it has creepage currents.

How can I figure out what is going on and where the small current is coming from?

  • With some electronic remotes on light's depending on how the switch is powered they can draw a small amount of power that is illuminating the LED's the current the switch draws is not visible with incandescent lambs but is enough to illuminate LED's. Getting a remote listed for LED use may be your only path forward. – Ed Beal Feb 17 '17 at 14:19
  • The remote is for this LED lightstrip exactly, it came as a package (LED strip, power connector, remote control). – Tom Feb 17 '17 at 14:20
  • Then logic would indicate that the fault is with the light kit. If its controller should turn the lights off and isn't, it's the problem. No? – isherwood Feb 17 '17 at 14:37
  • The wall socket provides voltage. What would or could it do to cause an otherwise effective switch (which breaks the circuit) to not prevent current flow? – Tim B Feb 17 '17 at 16:06
  • @isherwood - but two different kits from different manufacturers? – Tom Feb 18 '17 at 7:32
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We see this a lot. "I don't have a dimmer" -> some oddly reluctant exploration eventually reveals they have some other device with the same effect.

the light kit has its own remote-control switch -- you just answered that yourself. That remote control switch isn't fully turning the light off. Since you mention LED strip and remote in kit, I assume this is one of those very common LED strip controllers that lets you select 33 colors, rolling colors, all that. The kind that costs $6 on eBay, which explains everything.

Those controllers' real purpose is dimming/color control. They could be built to provide a hard off, but clearly this one isn't, and in any case, the DC power supply is still on.

It really needs a separate hard switch, and not be left on 24x7. Many of these products are cheap in a way only one nation can do, and you don't want one of these running unattended, catching on fire and filling your house with toxic smoke.

Since the other light is also an LED strip, you may be up against the same problem, just in a different way. If you start measuring various points for AC and DC voltage, bet you'll find voltage past a point where you shouldn't.

  • Measuring came to my mind, but I don't know how to measure currents without opening up the cabling. – Tom Feb 18 '17 at 7:34
  • And also, you are most likely right that this is not made locally. Don't remember the price tag, but it was not a hundred bucks. – Tom Feb 18 '17 at 7:47
  • A voltmeter should suffice. The presence (or absence) of a toll-free support number will tell you a lot. I'm fine with buying the $7 ebay cheapies, but if I'm going to pay $40 for the same thing, I will want to know that a known company of repute is doing excellent engineering, binning, and QA, and stands behind the products. – Harper Feb 18 '17 at 17:20
  • Thanks for the help. I have a voltmeter, but there are no open wires or contact points anywhere on the kit where I could put it. However, after checking here and there I'm sure that problem is in the kit and not the house or wiring or whatever (e.g. it stops glowing dimly when I flip the fuse). – Tom Feb 20 '17 at 9:44

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