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My existing wood fascia is about as old as the house (~12 years) and its time to scrape, sand and repaint as I have some serious peeling in some parts. This is AZ so no boards are rotting though. It looks like the boards were pretty rough and furry when installed so a good sand and prime may make them last longer than 10 years, I dunno (10 years is probably when they should have been painted).

I'm considering getting a composite trim board so I never have to do this again (or at least do it less frequently), anything that would be around $1-$2 per linear foot to replace 1x6 trim board would be good. Does anyone have experience with a good alternative material that will be lower maintenance? Or is it just a better deal to scrape and sand the existing wood if it's in good shape? Other than some warping that I'm going to have to fix all the boards appear to be in decent shape. I'm willing to pay a few hundred bucks for alternative boards if it means I don't have to do this again in 10 years.

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  • Do you object to a metal wrap? That's the standard for maintenance-free fascias around here. It's very easy to install right over your existing fascia. They'd last 20-30 years or more.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 13, 2017 at 18:44
  • @isherwood - But I would still have to do the paint work to protect the wood from water damage right?
    – Ian
    Commented Feb 13, 2017 at 18:49
  • Nope. It's installed right over raw lumber.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 13, 2017 at 19:13

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Assuming that you have one-by (3/4" nominal) fascia, I'd install steel wraps. They're commonly used in my area's harsh climate for an attractive, maintenance-free finish. Two sizes are available (for 6" and 8" fascias), but you could trim the top edge as needed for non-standard heights. The only preparation you'd need to do with your existing fascia would be to flatten out any warpage and replace any rotten areas with raw pine lumber.

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Be aware that this product is installed by sliding it under a metal roof edge, and that it's nailed upward from the bottom along the narrow edge. Nailing the face (other than at joints, where needed) results in dimples that stand out in certain lighting conditions. Lap pieces such that the lap is less visible from entryways, etc., and so that water flows properly on rakes.

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    It's also impervious to woodpeckers, if that's a problem for you!
    – CoAstroGeek
    Commented Feb 13, 2017 at 20:34

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