You may have a broken supply wire. This could happen one of several ways.
A broken "hot" wire (L1 or L2) would knock out the 240V components (heaters) and randomly knock out some or all 120V components (timer, drum, etc.)
A broken "neutral" wire would allow power to the 240V components(heaters), but may not allow them to turn on, as it would randomly break and even damage 120V components such as the timer controls, drum, etc.
Warning: On the obsolete, 3-prong NEMA-10 dryer sockets , a broken neutral is extremely dangerous, because the entire metal chassis of the dryer becomes energized at 120V, either all the time, or the moment it is switched on. A person can get a fatal shock if they touch the dryer and also anything properly grounded, like the washing machine right next to it, a water pipe, receptacle or switch, etc. A 4-prong NEMA 14 should be safe if both cord and receptacle are installed correctly.
Turn off the dryer circuit breaker and unplug the dryer. If it's a 3-prong NEMA-10 socket, proceed with great care, and maybe even call an electrician. (not something I say lightly - those guys cost money). If at all possible, upgrade to NEMA 14 -- and remember, you can reuse the existing 3-wire and retrofit a ground wire separately from the other wires! You would also need to change the dryer cord, and remove the neutral-ground jumper on the dryer.
It's rare for a cable to be damaged (though it does happen, especially if you've recently done construction or had a handling problem.) Usually, a wiring problem is at one of the terminations. So it's possible for a homeowner to skill-up on electrical, get a few basic tools, shut off the circuit, and follow it, disassembling and inspecting each connection point for a bad connection or broken device. This often yields fruit, but it does require some learning.
It's also possible for wires to come loose between the dryer cord and the dryer proper. This, you can do, by unplugging the dryer, pulling it back, and checking the connections.
Why am I up-playing a wiring problem and downplaying a mechanical problem? Because you report 2 things failed at the exact same time: the timer and the heaters. That's not likely.