I have a Sears Kenmore dryer that the timer doesn't time and the heater doesn't turn on and the dryer does tumble, model 110.66652501, this is an electric heat dryer. I have already tried to replace the time and there is still no change. Also, if it is the thermostat fuse would that cause the timer to not function?

So if someone could let me know which wire is the for the timer and the heater I could follow them?

  • I have had the thermal fuse blow and cause no heat but I don't remember if the timer worked. The fuses are usually ~5-10$ and easy to change if blown. This can be caused by not enough air flow due to lint build up in the exhaust pipe. Other than that the heating element may have opened. These are also not two hard to replace and cost about 50-60$. A good element will measure approx 15-20 ohms if memory serves.
    – Ed Beal
    Feb 1 '17 at 20:43
  • Does the dryer tumble or not? You indicate it does, but given the context it sounds like that may have been a typo...
    – mmathis
    Feb 1 '17 at 21:20
  • I googled your dryer model number with the word thermal fuse and found a link that has the thermal fuse and element with video's on how to check the fuse (Ohm meter needed). dryers are easy and inexpensive to repair compared to the cost of a new one. most the time all that is needed is a few basic tools like screw drivers, Crescent wrench and a basic meter to test the fuses heating elements are all that is needed.
    – Ed Beal
    Feb 2 '17 at 14:44
  • The dryer does tumble, but there is no heat and the timer doesn't actually stop the cycle.
    – Jay B
    Feb 2 '17 at 18:08
  • First Rule: don't randomly replace components, especially when you're not experienced with the equipment in question. You're just as likely to install the new one wrong as anything else. As @EdBeal suggests, read the schematic carefully to see which fuse controls what, test each fuse with an ohmmeter, and go on from there. Feb 2 '17 at 19:14

You may have a broken supply wire. This could happen one of several ways.

  • A broken "hot" wire (L1 or L2) would knock out the 240V components (heaters) and randomly knock out some or all 120V components (timer, drum, etc.)

  • A broken "neutral" wire would allow power to the 240V components(heaters), but may not allow them to turn on, as it would randomly break and even damage 120V components such as the timer controls, drum, etc.

Warning: On the obsolete, 3-prong NEMA-10 dryer sockets , a broken neutral is extremely dangerous, because the entire metal chassis of the dryer becomes energized at 120V, either all the time, or the moment it is switched on. A person can get a fatal shock if they touch the dryer and also anything properly grounded, like the washing machine right next to it, a water pipe, receptacle or switch, etc. A 4-prong NEMA 14 should be safe if both cord and receptacle are installed correctly.

Turn off the dryer circuit breaker and unplug the dryer. If it's a 3-prong NEMA-10 socket, proceed with great care, and maybe even call an electrician. (not something I say lightly - those guys cost money). If at all possible, upgrade to NEMA 14 -- and remember, you can reuse the existing 3-wire and retrofit a ground wire separately from the other wires! You would also need to change the dryer cord, and remove the neutral-ground jumper on the dryer.

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It's rare for a cable to be damaged (though it does happen, especially if you've recently done construction or had a handling problem.) Usually, a wiring problem is at one of the terminations. So it's possible for a homeowner to skill-up on electrical, get a few basic tools, shut off the circuit, and follow it, disassembling and inspecting each connection point for a bad connection or broken device. This often yields fruit, but it does require some learning.

It's also possible for wires to come loose between the dryer cord and the dryer proper. This, you can do, by unplugging the dryer, pulling it back, and checking the connections.

Why am I up-playing a wiring problem and downplaying a mechanical problem? Because you report 2 things failed at the exact same time: the timer and the heaters. That's not likely.

  • Thanks for your time. There hasn't been any construction in my basement and nothing has moved, But hill have my Electrician buddy check it. I think testing the fuse maybe the first option to try since the dryer does tumble.
    – Jay B
    Feb 3 '17 at 14:59

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