4

I'd like to glue laminate flooring on my TV wall. I just plan to glue the laminate directly to the wall, which is drywall primed with Kilz PVA

I have No More Nails general purpose adhesive lying around. It states it does not recommend bonding together two (2) non-porous materials.

The back of the laminate flooring definitely looks non-porous. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Kilz PVA primer makes the drywall non-porous, right?

If so, what would be the best type of adhesive to use for this application?


ANSWERED.

Here are photos of how I did it:

enter image description here

1-5/8" paneling nail to the lip

Finished wall

I did end up using some form of adhesive on the aluminum trim/border: Super Glue!

  • 1
    You want a quick-grab panel adhesive anyway, or you're going to drive yourself nuts trying to keep the flooring in place while the adhesive sets. – isherwood Jan 30 '17 at 16:49
  • I have experience with PL 8x (Polyurethane), and while it's permanently strong once it dries, it doesn't hold in place initially. Maybe I should just hammer+nail to the stud the first bottom row in place? – Rollo R Jan 30 '17 at 16:54
  • Great job! Not enough people post follow-up photos, so thanks for that. – gregmac Feb 3 '17 at 17:24
3

I wouldn't try to primarily use any adhesive for this, it would be better to use a brad nailer. This will be easier, faster and stronger (and cheaper, if you already have or don't count the cost of buying the nailer itself).

enter image description here

Mark the studs, and put a nail in the groove (which will be hidden by the next piece).

You only really need adhesive for the top row. I'd put it on the bottom row as well, just for good measure, but the bottom row can usually be nailed or even screwed to the wall at the bottom where it will be covered by baseboard.

Since it's not really holding much weight, 'No More Nails' would work, as would basically any silicone or construction adhesive.

  • Sadly, I do not have a brad nailer. You think I can get away with hammer and nail, hopefully have the nail 'flush' enough, and/or not smash the click joints while hammering? – Rollo R Jan 30 '17 at 19:46
  • 1
    I highly recommend doing it this way. Brad nailers can be bought fro $20-30 in US at the harbor freight and not much more at big boxes. If you do it this way only your first row needs a lot of staples. The problem with any sort of glue is that when you take down the flooring you will basically need to redrywall the wall (or spend more amount of time skim coating it - much more) vs. repriming the wall with some tiny holes. – DMoore Jan 30 '17 at 20:07
  • So will cheap electric nailers like this: lowes.ca/staple-guns/… work? Will it drive the nail through the laminate, drywall then wood stud? – Rollo R Jan 30 '17 at 20:14
  • @DMoore Very good point. Suddenly remembering the time I took down some wood paneling that had been glued -- it left giant divots all over the drywall, was a huge mess. Even though it was a pain to replace the drywall (which involved an angled piece above a staircase) it was the right move, and probably took me in total less than half the time all the patching, skim coating and sanding would have. Not to mention I had a nice 100% drywall wall again, instead of one that was 40% drywall and 60% compound. – gregmac Jan 30 '17 at 22:03
  • 1
    I finished the wall. I used 1-5/8" paneling nails, a small hammer and a 4/32" nail set (to drive the nail in the laminate's lip). I ended up not using any glue at all. It feels solid enough! Would've worked faster and quieter if I had a Brad Nailer, but the nails and nail cost me CAD $10. – Rollo R Feb 2 '17 at 20:55

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.