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I'm a software engineer pretending to be a handyman, so bear with me. I'd like to know if double-sided carpet tape will work as I expect. Here is more context. I have an unfinished attic with a plywood floor:

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In this half of this attic I want to put high pile plush green carpet. I found these 6' x 5' IKEA carpets which look great and are cheap. My plan is to buy 14 of them and tile them across the floor like so (my photoshop job is not to scale, it will take 14 to completely cover the area):

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The back of these carpets does not have any padding. It's woven, see here:

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So I'm planning to buy a couple roles of this foam carpet padding and simply lay it out on the ground. I was not planning to staple it down. Then I'll tile the 14 IKEA carpets on top and at all the seams I'd use this double sided tape to connect the edges of carpet together and stick them to the carpet padding.

Will this tape work as I expect? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-Indoor-Outdoor-3-in-x-15-ft-Double-Sided-Carpet-Tape-Roll-50-605-12/100645279

Does my overall plan sound sane? I'm sure there are a couple things I'm oblivious to which will make this not work as I hope so I appreciate any advice or suggestions!

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I think that you're on the wrong track. You can purchase actual carpet tiles specifically designed for that use case. The linked one is a hideous green with peel and stick backing, other brands snap together at the edges. I believe you'll find the cost per square foot roughly equivalent to the IKEA rugs. Installation will certainly be way easier.

I wouldn't trust underlayment that wasn't stapled down. If you are interested in the tile idea I would add the padding into your budget and buy nicer tiles. (You may have better results at a dedicated flooring store than the home center.)

If you are dead set against carpet tiles and stapling both you may want to look into rug underlays, which come in tacky (sticky, not tasteless) no-slip versions. Rug underlays are quite a bit tougher to rip than carpet underlay as well.

It isn't a great option for you because of the column, but you can order bound carpet in any dimension. (Bound carpet has the edges sealed so they won't unravel.) It's slightly more expensive than 14 Ikea rugs taped together, but it's a lot less of a trip hazard.

UPDATE - You should definitely invest in a hammer tacker and staple the underlayment down since it's an unfinished floor. One staple every couple inches around the perimeter of each piece to prevent it from sliding or bunching up. Leave enough room that the rugs can be taped down directly to the floor on the outside perimeter.

  • I've looked at a lot of carpet tiles and have not found ones that look nice. A fake grass look indoors is risky: it's very easy for it to come off as tacky. It has to try hard enough to look real, but not too hard. :) Also, the IKEA carpets are bound so they won't unravel. Overall, it sounds like you're saying I should stick down the underlayment. I could do that. My real key question is if the double-sided tape will actually stick to the carpet back + carpet underlay? – Keith Schacht Feb 5 '17 at 17:38
  • The tape manufacturer has an 800 number in the Q&A section, but by all accounts it sticks to any and everything. The real issue is going to be stretching the combined rugs out enough to prevent wrinkles. Wall-to-wall has stapled underlayment, but the carpet is stretched and fastened to the floor around the perimeter. – Matthew Gauthier Feb 5 '17 at 20:29
  • Agree with Matthew's comment. Ultimately, I can't see how this plan will work at all; the separate carpets won't sustain the pressure of being walked on without creating a gap where each is "joined" -- especially with padding underneath. A sure trip hazard. I recommend a new plan. The IKEA rugs can only work if you stitch then all together--seriously labor-intensive. – M.Mat Feb 5 '17 at 22:02
  • I can imagine it "working" with a rented seaming iron to join them, or contact cementing them down to something like cork underlayment to make them into tiles. I'm really at a loss to imagine any plan less involved than installing actual carpet though. – Matthew Gauthier Feb 5 '17 at 22:13
  • Got it, I'm getting a sense for the concerns you both are raising. It sounds like I definitely need to stick the underlayment to the floor with the hammer tacker. Let's assume I did that. @M.Mat, are you still raising concerns about a gap where each is joined. Is that because the double-sided carpet tape will not be as strong as I expect? Matthew, is a seaming iron more effective at joining than the carpet tape? – Keith Schacht Feb 6 '17 at 5:55

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