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I'd like to install a gas dryer by splitting the gas line that currently feeds the gas water heater. Is the solution as simple as splitting the line with a tee fitting/valve where the green arrow points? Any other parts needed?

Split line here


Stacked washer/dryer would go here:

future location

  • Where will the dryer be placed in relation to the water heater? – mmathis Jan 12 '17 at 4:58
  • Conceptually yes, though the arrow probably isn't where you would want the T installed. And you probably want to let a pro do pipefitting for gas rather than doing it yourself; in theory it's straightforward but you don't have the sniffer to make sure it isn't leaking and the consequences of getting it wrong could be significantly worse than a water leak would be. – keshlam Jan 12 '17 at 5:10
  • I'm surprised that no one mentioned the lack of space to access the water heater. It looks like only 12 inches from wall to proposed dryer area. That's not code. – John S Jul 14 '18 at 2:53
  • I believe the accepted answer has many flaws, as John s and tester point out, there is also the venting issue that was not discussed, is this an interior living space or a exterior like in a garrage if interior like a closet it will need a source of fresh air. And last use black pipe, I believe the galvanized T in the photo should be black pipe. – Ed Beal Jul 14 '18 at 11:06
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Instead of teeing the 1/2" line where both appliances would be fed through the same section of 1/2" pipe, you would be better off installing the tee upstream, where the 1" coupling is now. This will ensure adequate gas volume to both appliances and allow you to install independent shut-offs. Yes, you will have to shut off the gas at an upstream location, maybe even all the way back at the meter.

You should take this time to eliminate the reducing bushings (I see both a 1"x3/4" and a 3/4"x1/2") as bushings are not supposed to be used on gas lines inside the home (check with your local permitting authority, but that's my understanding). I would just get rid of the 3/4" stuff completely and use a 1"x1/2"x1/2" tee and install valves with flare thread outlets to attach the flex line directly to. Iron pipe and fittings use a tapered thread, you need to get them tight for a good seal, and use thread tape approved for use on gas pipe.

If you are handy at all, you can do this job yourself (don't listen to naysayers), you are allowed to do this work on your own home in most places. Make sure you test all new fittings and those that were disturbed using "gas leak detection juice" or soapy water (little bubbles=small leak, big bubbles=big leak; NO leak is acceptable).

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    I like your idea, only problem is that you need a sediment trap (aka drip leg). Also, you don't need dope on the flare connections, only the NPT joints (not everybody knows that). – Tester101 Jan 12 '17 at 12:04
  • Yup, flare fittings seal metal-to-metal, but dope doesn't hurt anything. I did not go into any depth on piping configurations as requirements vary from area to area, hence direction to check with local AHJ. I don't have sediment traps on mine and inspector gave the thumbs up, maybe I should install one but then again, my Mom's hasn't had one for 25 years, same heater, no problems. – Jimmy Fix-it Jan 13 '17 at 1:49
  • some appliances have built in sediment traps. As far as I know, it's required by UPC, IRC, and NFGC to install a drip leg if there's not one in the appliance. – Tester101 Jan 13 '17 at 2:59
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    Also, tape dope on flare fittings can cause problems, especially if you use too much. – Tester101 Jan 13 '17 at 3:00
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    Someone that uses dope on flair fittings and doesn't use drip legs shows they should not be doing gas pipe work in my opinion. Did you put the galvanized T by accident you should add a disclaimer that black iron pipe not galvanized pipe is required – Ed Beal Jul 14 '18 at 10:56

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