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I’m pouring concrete over rough plumbing enter image description here (as pictured). The plumber attached the shower pan to the drain. How can I get concrete under the shower pan? Radon is an issue in my area. I would like to seal the floor in some way.

How thick should I pour the new floor? The existing floor is 3’’ to 4’’ depending on the spot. Do I need to prep the sides of the existing concrete to get the new stuff to attach properly?

The pipes are in a 9’ trench going to the ejector pit. Do I need to pour this in sections?

Should I wrap the ejector pit or pipes where they exit the concrete to protect from movement/settling? Should I remove dirt and add sand around the pipes?

the shower drain:enter image description here

I have reviewed theses posts:

What is the best way to fill a hole in a concrete basement floor?

How do I fill in around waste pipes?

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    Are you sure you're "pouring a new floor" rather than filling in and leveling the existing one? A new floor is best done when the old concrete has be completely removed, as well as, all finishes (drain caps, shower pan, etc.). Sole plates and studs should not extend below the new concrete floor.
    – James Olson
    Dec 30, 2016 at 22:45
  • That is correct it is not a full new floor. I am only filling in the part of the floor that was cut out for the plumbing. All of the existing concrete shown in the picture will stay in place.
    – humboldt hiker
    Dec 31, 2016 at 0:55
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    Can you disconnect that pan? Did the plumber just screw some drain connector in? Have him undo that and finish the fill before he does it for good.
    – DaveM
    Dec 31, 2016 at 1:30
  • Unfortunately the plumber glued the pan and drain together.
    – humboldt hiker
    Dec 31, 2016 at 6:08

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  1. I am perplexed to how the plumber would have glued the drain down before concrete was poured. If he really do this you need to get a new plumber, seriously. Let's just say he didn't. If my plumber was doing a job for me he would leave the pan in the same condition, albeit not glued in - since he is double checking the location, especially for fixed pans. So try to pull it up (if it is glued and you can pull it up, well it shouldn't).

  2. This is just a comment. Based on the picture it looks like you could have plumbing traveling uphill, if this isn't for venting that isn't good.

  3. To fill your holes you need sand then aggregate (small gravel) and then you pour your concrete. You will be pouring a little over existing floor but not much and feather flat.

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    You are right about me needing a new plumber. I talked to the plumber and he said he glued it. He suggested spraying foam under the shower to seal it. I add a picture of the drain.
    – humboldt hiker
    Jan 1, 2017 at 17:00
  • You are going to need to disconnect that pan. There is no way that is put on right. He is missing the top flange or some other piece. Whatever it is it isn't connected right. You shouldn't have a piece of PVC that comes out of the drain without a flange on top. Saw out the pvc anywhere you want, flip the pan over, and disassemble the drain - this may be a PITA. Also I don't want to pile on but the toilet flange is way too low. You can put an extension on it but still no one would set it that low. The edges of the flange should sit on top of concrete or a little higher.
    – DMoore
    Jan 2, 2017 at 4:35
  • You can get a quality plumber to do all of this in 1-2 hours for 200-300. Either do it yourself or get it done right. This looks horrible. Also you thinset under the pan to help hold it in place and fill the voids (for most pans but read your instructions).
    – DMoore
    Jan 2, 2017 at 4:36
  • I was able to remove the shower pan. Thank you for all of the help. Any information the group can give me on pouring the concrete would be greatly appreciated.
    – humboldt hiker
    Jan 12, 2017 at 5:30

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