Let me start off with a diagram


This is the projector screen in front of the wall. The vertical bars are the studs.

  • There are probably 4 or 5 more studs between the edges of the screen).
  • The frame of the projector has about a 3" gap from where the keyhole slots or loops for hanging are located.

I'm trying to figure out how I can attach the projector screen to the wall or the ceiling. I don't seem to be able to attach it to the wall because of the positions of the studs. I would only be able to attach to one of the studs with brackets or a screw.

I would prefer to hang the projector from the ceiling, but the joists run parallel to the wall, so the nearest one is 18" from the wall, which is much too far for where I'd like the screen to hang.

  • How much does the screen weigh? Is it retractable? Dec 9, 2016 at 0:47
  • It weighs 22.9 pounds, and is retractable.
    – Mustard
    Dec 9, 2016 at 1:05

4 Answers 4


Rather that attaching into the drywall or cobbling up short mounting blocks I would strongly recommend that you mount a board to all the existing studs that is just a bit longer than the width of your screen.

This board can be a straight forward 1x6 pine board (actual dimensions 0.75" x 5.5"). Since you want the screen up near the ceiling anyway just slide the board all the way up against the ceiling and attach it with screws right through the drywall and into the studs. This will make a nice sturdy place to attach the hangers for the screen. Once it is all attached in place the board can have holes filled with filler or spackle. Then prime and paint to a color that matches the wall.

Note that once the screen is hung in front of the board it will hardly be noticed that the board is there and it will still look nicer than other kludge solutions.


You could screw one side into a stud, and use a 1/4" toggle bolt for the other side. I would avoid using the toggle bolts to hang it from the ceiling.

Toggle Bolt Ratings

Your best bet, however, would be to cut the drywall, install backing, and then patch and paint the hole. Either on the wall or the ceiling.


If you're not too far off from the stud, you could screw a block into the stud (like a 6" piece of 1x2) and then mount your projector onto the block. Of course, you would need a similar block on the other side to keep the screen parallel to the wall.


I commented to ask, but then noticed that you did mention hanging loops as well as the keyhole slots (as is fairly standard for projection screens.) The hanging loops make it easy to run a short section of chain or cable to hooks solidly in the studs. The chain or cable can run at an angle (indeed, the screen is more stable with the suspension at an angle, rather than vertical).

\                                 /
 \                               /

Kinda like that. I prefer chain, myself.

You can go at a more extreme angle than ASCII art allows. If you are super cautious (or seismically concerned), use screw eyes in the studs and a screw-link at both ends of the chains - otherwise a screw-hook and one screw-link where you connect the chain to the hanging loop should work, at lower cost.

If you are quite relaxed about it you could use non-welded lamp chain for such a light load and skip the screw links entirely (you just twist loops open/closed to connect) but I've always had the concern of being absolutely, positively sure it's not going to drop on someone's head win over the minor cost savings, so I overbuild them. Still, they hang light fixtures over people's heads with the stuff...

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.