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How to wire gfci to aluminum wiring. Have not tried to yet, i want to be sure as to how first. I've been told of using no-ox and 6" copper pig tails.

marked as duplicate by ThreePhaseEel, Tester101 Nov 30 '16 at 13:54

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    This is covered pretty well here: What's the best way of replacing a plug or switch in a house with aluminum wiring?. There's no difference when using a GFCI. – gregmac Nov 30 '16 at 3:42
  • Not a dupe. Saying it's a dupe equals telling them to splice the Al wires to fit the GFCI+receptacle. We should tell them not to. The answer is put GFCI protection upstream of that location, e.g. In the service panel as a GFCI+AFCI breaker. I recommend fitting an AFCI anyway for Al wire, so kill two birds with one stone. – Harper Feb 22 '18 at 1:10
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All no-ox joint compounds are not equal. Penetrox A (mfgr Burndy) is non-flammable grease. 35 years ago I pig-tailed our aluminum wiring with No-Al-Ox and Scotchlok twist on connectors. No-Al-Ox I later found out (and confirmed myself) is flammable. I'm in the slow and gradual process of redoing the pigtails with AlumiConn connectors which are pre-packed with anti-oxidant grease. However, none of my old connections with No-Al-Ox has shown any evidence of heating or failure.

Unfortunately AlumniConns are not always available except by order. They come in 2-port and 3-port. In some cases the 2-port might be necessary to be able to fit a bulky device and all the connections and wires into the box. Also use #14 wire for the pig-tails if the circuit is 15-A because it folds and fits much easier than the #12 required for 20-A circuits.

The instructions for tightening the screws on the AlumiConn connectors are to use a torque screwdriver (10 in-lb for #12 AL and 15 in-lb for #10 AL and for #14 and #12 CU). There used to be alternative instructions on number of turns after contact with the wire, but I haven't found that lately.

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