I find I get the best results when I paint a board laying flat.

If I paint a board standing up, then the paint tends to drip down and form waves or bumps.

On the other hand, when I paint the board lying flat I can only paint one side at a time. If I paint the board standing up, I can paint both sides so it goes twice as fast.

Is the preferred method of painting to paint flat, or is there a way of painting a board standing up so that it doesn't drip? (this would be applicable to fences, for example).

  • @isherwood What do you mean by working it out? I am using thick oil-based primers and paints. – Tyler Durden Nov 21 '16 at 18:05

You should be working the paint out to the point that it doesn't run. (People paint walls every day without this problem.) Or buy better paint. (Cheap paint is very watery.)

You may also be applying too heavily. Put the paint on the surface and brush or roll it outward to distribute. You should have an even coat that's as thin as it can be without showing drag marks, bare spots, etc. If you do that, it won't run.

I like to work from one side to the other, applying paint in a leapfrog manner: Dip the brush, scrape one side clean on the container, dab the surface a few inches away from the previously painted area, and work back to it, blending. With a little experience you can actually feel when you have too much or too little paint on an area by the drag on the brush or the stickiness of the roller.

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    I'd like to add to the point you already made. I bought a very large container of primer paint for new drywall slabs and apparently the primer was so cheap that it was runny and started to crack almost immediately after it began to dry. Do not buy inexpensive paint unless you are okay with a half ass job. – aguertin Nov 21 '16 at 18:51
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    Most drywall primer is very loose. This is to maximize coverage. It should be applied thinly as its primary purpose is to seal the paper and joint compound for further coating. If you're applying it heavily as a coloration coating you can expect odd results. – isherwood Nov 21 '16 at 19:44
  • No, just a very light coat. I went back to the store I got it from and asked the guy working there what he thought about the primer I had already purchased and he told me not to bother getting it because of how bad it is(he didn't know i already purchased it haha). I guess my point is they sell terrible product off the shelf and there isnt a great way to know unless you ask or get a sample. – aguertin Nov 21 '16 at 20:11

A few points:

  1. As others have said, don't bother buying cheap paint, spend some time researching which paints do as intended and endure.
  2. Some paints, especially liquid gloss paint, will run like f@~%, so you need to use them carefully. Get a good brush (again a cheap one is a false economy), dip half of it in the paint and then work of the excess on the inside edge of the tin (container), then carefully apply the paint in as thin a layer as you can (as if you only have a little left).
  3. You can wipe drips off with a rag (but you won't get all of them)
  4. for all coats except the final one, you should lightly rub the surface with a sandpaper (of decreasing grit size) to get a better finish anyway, and you can simply sand the drips and runs off.
  5. Use a good brush, did I say that already? A cheap one is a false economy
  6. Get something to listen to that you haven't heard recently, as you are going to be "at it" for some time.
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Myself and every painting pro I've ever seen uses a 4" roller and then lays off with a brush.

Load up the roller and roll it on, spreading it out evenly (easy with a roller), you can even go both ways if you want, and then flip tools and carefully 'lay off' over the rolled paint in the direction you want (usually top to bottom). I use a biggish brush a 2 1/2" or 3". Dip and wipe the brush once in a while to keep it 'wet'.

Don't forget to use the proper rollers for oil based paints.

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