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I am setting up a home office at the moment in a 3m wide room and like the idea of having a desk "float" from one side of the room to the other. I am basing on this guide.

For my desk I'm going to buy a 3000mm x 720mm x 40mm beech kitchen worktop (so all one piece). I'll be using 2x4 to make a solid frame attached to the studs like this. But I really don't like the L-brackets.

I am hoping there is some way to support such a long, heavy piece of wood without using brackets. I was thinking of mounting a couple of metal support beams to the sides and running them all the way along, but I can't seem to find a sturdy thin bit of metal that would work. I've also seen the brackets that can be mounted along the studs inside the wall so the support would be the only thing visible, but I'd rather not cut holes in my wall for a weekend project!

Thanks!

  • It sounds like you need 2 things. An engineer, or someone who can do similar calculations of force and deflection. As well as a metal fabricator. What you're looking to do is called 'Cantilever'. Whether it's a desk, a deck, or a bridge, there are always concerns for flex, deflection and getting the forces right. This Could be done DIY, but would be a HUGE challenge at these dimensions. – BrownRedHawk Oct 19 '16 at 11:51
  • 3 short filing cabinets is highly functional, or for a traditional 'student' look, use 3 cinder block pillars. Float is better left to people who never actually use their desk. – Wayfaring Stranger Oct 19 '16 at 13:30
  • Why not screw a 2x4 to each wall at the studs then put the support boards on top of them. And the counter top on the supports. – Ed Beal Oct 19 '16 at 16:40
  • Possible duplicate of Floating wall mounted office desk – isherwood Oct 19 '16 at 17:04
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A solid wood plank 40mm (1-9/16") thick probably isn't stiff enough to span that distance (just under 10' for the Yanks) without substantial bounce. It'll be strong enough, but you would get seasick working on it and it would sag over time and with heavy loads.

Now, if you made it thicker, say 55-60mm, and you beveled the front edge to give the illusion of a thinner surface, you'd have something workable. You could support it solely on the rim cleats you describe and have a fairly stiff top.

The alternative is to go with your 40mm thick dimension and bolt several steel angles to the underside, back just far enough that they aren't conspicuous. I'd suggest a 50mm angle. Start with two and add more if needed. Steel is fairly flexible itself, so quantity is in question. These would not need to rest on the wall cleats to serve their purpose if they're securely fastened to the top. They could end just short for convenience.

  • Hey, thanks for the response. Do you think 50mm brackets would be enough to take the full weight? When I was looking at brackets I was actually looking at 500mm! So obviously they would be fairly noticeable. but I can definitely live with a few small brackets at the back. (obviously with the cleats) 60mm would be fine, but I can't find the right depth in my price range – Verno Oct 19 '16 at 18:48
  • I didn't say "brackets". I said angles, as in this: metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/angle-iron/hot-rolled/… And they wouldn't go at the back. You already have support there. You need support toward the front. – isherwood Oct 19 '16 at 19:24
  • ah, I see. I was thinking of getting a couple of [these:]( steeltubedirect.co.uk/products/…) would that work, and be stronger? or would I be better with the angles? – Verno Oct 19 '16 at 21:09
  • Yeah, that would probably work in a vertical orientation. The key is to have substantial stiffness, however it can be accomplished. – isherwood Oct 23 '16 at 2:47

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