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I need some advice. My dryer stopped working. blown thermal fuse. Replaced. Now when I open the dryer door before the timer goes off the dryer continues to spin.

I've spent an hour or two looking for a short now. That's the only thing I can think of that would allow the door switch (which I tested separate and is working) to be bypassed? I have tested at each component and I find continuity between the chassis and component everywhere (in reg dry mode) I also find that the black wire at the plug has continuity to the chassis (dryer door open in reg high heat mode)

Looking at the wiring diagram I see that neutral is tied to the cabinet, and sure enough I can see that when looking at the dryer. This seems pretty crazy to me?

Any tips on how to track down the short? If there is a short? I am really stumped right now im not sure what to do next.

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  • Does the light in the dryer drum come on when you open the door? – ThreePhaseEel Oct 18 '16 at 0:48
  • this one doesnt have a light. – Paul Wade Oct 18 '16 at 1:02
  • Have you also tested the push to start switch ? – D-on Oct 18 '16 at 1:03
  • Does the door switch have continuity in the "door closed" position but not in the "door open" position? – ThreePhaseEel Oct 18 '16 at 1:05
  • i did not check the start switch.. but I guess I dont see how it could be at fault? ... in fact.. now that I know how this timer works and ive seen the circuits I have literally no idea how the start switch does ANYTHING... – Paul Wade Oct 18 '16 at 1:05
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Most of the dryers I have repaired with similar issues have had the Ni crome wire (heating element) break and short. Replacement elements are usually less than 50$. Several times once the broken heating coil broke loose from the metal enclosure everything but the heat worked. Checking the heating element with a meter will show if it is open (broken) or normal less than 50 ohms. One family member had this happen 3 times over several years 2 small holes where the coil arcing caused a small hole that I sealed with metal high temp duct tape. The thermal fuses on that model were 4-5$ the replacement coil was ~28$ and since it is now one of my kids it was free trouble shooting and repair, things that can cause this are not cleaning the lint filter or taking it out and the pipe fills with lint and ? Now she even has her husband clean the exhaust pipe just in case once a year but this has happened to me also on a verrry old dryer the wife said she wanted gone but I kept fixing it for way less than a replacement it is now at our other daughters house running strong after her second baby I think it is older than she is but not sure but it still works. Belts , rollers , heat coil's/ fuses and a new filter have kept 1 high capacity dryer running for 32 years +. Dryers are easy with a little time and an ohm meter Or continuity checker.

  • Ed I THINK you are right. I wondered the same thing and took the element out to make sure it wasn't hitting any metal. I also disassembled and cleaned the contacts in the timer switch as well. I HAD done BOTH of these things already but the 3rd time the short was gone. Working now but I'm still pretty nervous. That's a lot of voltage on the cabinet if it does short again. – Paul Wade Oct 18 '16 at 19:15
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The shorted heater can definitely cause an over heating condition bypassing the cycling thermostat to a ground connection. (It would only heat to the short contact point and it would only be 120VAC, instead of full 240) If it happens again try unplugging the door switch at the connection just under the top and see if that stops it. I don't see how a shorted heating element could still supply power through the motor to run. I'm guessing the door switch is sticking internally. To ease your concerns, disconnect connecting wires to the heating element, on the back of the dryer and check each heater terminal to the case of the element for continuity with a multimeter.

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