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I have a room with the main light on a dimmer switch.

If I turn the switch all the way down, then the light doesn't go off. And indeed, it doesn't even go all that far down.

I'd like the minimum to be lower (ideally off). What controls that?

Is it solely a function of the bulb? solely the dimmer switch? A combination of the two?

If it's determined by the dimmer switch, then is that something I can modify on the switch? If not, then what property should I be looking at when I buy the replacement switch? What value determines the intensity of the light at the lowest bound?

I assume that for the maximum brightness, I don't care about anythign except the bulb ... I just need to get a higher Wattage bulb, just as I would do for a regular, non-Dimmable switch.

Is that right?

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  • What type of bulb? Only incandescent bulbs behave as you would expect on a dimmer. Some LED bulbs are dimmable but may not do quite what you'd think. Other LED bulbs behave strangely and CFLs don't work.
    – Chris H
    Oct 9, 2016 at 16:48
  • If this is due to LED bulbs and an existing dimmer (meant for incandescent bulbs), then try replacing the dimmer with one that suits the LEDs better. I had a similar problem with a smart switch (only on some LED lights) and the solution was to use a LED Bypass. Feb 23 at 11:07

3 Answers 3

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First check that your dimmer does not have a dimming range adjustment. Several of the Lutron CFL/LED dimmers have this ability, check for an adjustment dial. LUTRON ADJUSTMENT

But lower dimmable levels depend on what type of bulb you have (CFL, LED, incandescent, halogen).
Lutron Dimmable Bulbs identifies the following

What does “compatible” mean? Compatible means that the bulbs can be dimmed, although the bulb’s dimming performance may not match what you’re used to seeing when dimming an incandescent or halogen bulb. These bulbs have also been electrically tested to confirm that the control may be used up to its full rated CFL/LED load without affecting the life of the control. Products on this list are considered compatible with the respective Lutron C·L dimmers. Depending on the quality of the bulb you select, compatible bulbs may still: - have less dimming range than an incandescent or halogen bulb - dim less smoothly than an incandescent or halogen bulb - flicker or shimmer at certain light levels - buzz

As you notice LED and CFLs are not able to dim to the same levels that incandescents and halogens can achieve. So if your using LEDs or CFLs and want to dim to a lower level you could switch to incandescent or halogen. But if you must use LEDs or CFLs then the only way to have less "brightness" is to move to a lower lumen bulb or try changing color temperature.

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You said the light does not turn off at the lowest setting. Is this dimmer just a round knob (rotary dimmer switch) you turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to brighten or dim? If so, press the knob in to click the light on or off.

Otherwise, see if there is another switch somewhere that turns it off and on. In dual-switch situations there is usually one dimmer switch and one regular switch, not always in the same location. In one of our rooms we have a rotary with push on/off by one door, and a regular switch by the other.

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Kasa also has this feature in their app, and it works great: Go to "Device Settings" > "Dimming Calibration". Slide down the green bar to minimum light level. Then click "test" and follow instructions.

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  • Welcome. This is not a good answer. We dont want readers to havd to google to understand your answer. Please consider expanding it to be more self contained Feb 23 at 5:31
  • Nothing in my question suggests that I'm talking about a Smart Switch. Just using traditional electric circuits here :)
    – Brondahl
    Feb 23 at 6:40
  • As it’s currently written, your answer is unclear. Please edit to add additional details that will help others understand how this addresses the question asked. You can find more information on how to write good answers in the help center.
    – Community Bot
    Feb 23 at 8:50
  • Maybe not particularly well formatted, @RohitGupta, but it seems to contain reasonably complete information. It also doesn't particularly apply to the OPs case since he has "dumb" bulbs/switches, not "smart" ones, but I don't see any need for additional web searching. Of course, there is still (as was noted in the accepted answer from 6 years ago) a minimum brightness available in many modern bulb types that simply cannot be bypassed, no matter the switch technology.
    – FreeMan
    Feb 23 at 14:28

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