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Assuming I use a ledger board (vs freestanding...ehem) I will be attaching a ledger to my rim-joist which is an engineered heavy 1" thick OSB material. I know it's structurally sound, but, I have my concerns about the method my rim joist use to secure to the I-Joists which are TJI 11-7/8" standard. AFAIK the rim is nailed to the I-joist flanges, since that's the only meat they have to fasten to. That scares me for a few reasons - 1.) Nails, not screws on something that will have a load tendency to pull out 2.) I wasn't there during the install to know how well it was secured to the I-Joists... and 3.) this isn't just a 2 or 3' high deck, it will be about 9' high.

So, I discussed it with the building inspector and he thought I didn't need to worry, but for my own peace of mind I am thinking of using 2x material on the interior side that I know is secured to the i joists and using a few lag or threaded bolts long enough to anchor to 4 or 5 of these spaced every 3 or so feet while the rest of the ledger is just secured to my rim joist. My two concerns are 1) What is a full proof method to secure to the i joist flanges from such an awkward angle and only having access to one side....2)Should I be concerned that this just puts more uneven pressure on the rim joist since these 2x would be essentially sistered with the rim joist?

I'm sort of brushing the fear off by theorizing the fact that the majority of my load will be directly down, and not as much out. The rim joist would never budge if it only has the down force, it's the idea of the top wanting to pull out that I fear.

My only other bright idea is to toe-screw through my rim-joist at an upward angle such that the screws could anchor into the meat of my bottom wall plate.

  • I like the idea of anchoring to both the rim joist and the bottom plate but with some cross bracing on the legs it would probably be fine just into the rim joist. The last deck I did was only 3' high and the inspector required 30 # felt (tar paper) between the 2x8 and the rim joist. – Ed Beal Oct 9 '16 at 19:46
  • @EdBeal - Do you think the LedgerLok screws would be sufficient for tying into the bottom plate? I don't wanna do damage to the plate by using big a** lag bolts in something that is probably going to catch the second half of the bottom plate. Care to explain more on the cross bracing? I'm just wondering if I cross-brace the exterior posts(legs) on how that will affect the tear our force on my rim-joist, yah know? – Nic Oct 11 '16 at 17:25
  • X braces from the house side post to the outside post will reduce any movement with a deck that high 9' I would do it in both directions to make it more stable X on the outside down the length not next to the house. – Ed Beal Oct 11 '16 at 18:55
  • Missed the legerlok I have used the torx style in the past with no problem other than the head these are the same. – Ed Beal Oct 11 '16 at 19:03
  • @EdBeal with a depth of 12' max and width of roughly 20', I would not have any house posts as I would use the ledger board. The only posts would be the ones towards the outside. I don't want to brace diagonally from the ledger to the outside post because I need easy access under the deck. (bsment walkout door will be below the deck) – Nic Oct 11 '16 at 19:19

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