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I'm currently about to embark on redeveloping my home office.

We have a room with a small alcove and want to mount a desk top inside it. The approx size is 220cm x 80cm

We can source the wood we want no problem and are considering a hard wood with a nice finish that is around 8cm thick (2inches)

I want the desk to be as free floating as possible with the obvious exception of mounting at the rear and sides into the wall.

The left side wall is plaster into brick, the rear and right side wall are plasterboard with cavity behind .

My question is what is the best way to mount the desk without having to put in a strengthening leg in the centre?

Thanks for your help :)

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    I have mounted that type of desk totally free of any side walls. The thing is you need to open up the wall it is mounted on and add steel welded in such a way, so it will support the top. If you are into that, no leg is needed any where, ledgers either, although ledgers are simpler and cheaper than steel.
    – Jack
    Commented May 11, 2015 at 23:13
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    Just a word of warning, this slab of wood is very large and is going to be seriously heavy. Depending on the type it will probably be about 200 lbs (90 kg). Even lifting the desk top will be a challenge, much less mounting it on the wall. Make sure your support system can handle the weight of the desk plus all the contents (computer equipment, stacks of books), plus someone leaning against it.
    – Hank
    Commented May 12, 2015 at 15:02
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    That's what, an 85" span? I think sag in the middle may be your biggest problem. It's not about how to mount it to the wall- that's easy. I can't think of a way to stop the sag / flexion / bounciness without a leg or a large triangular bracket.
    – TX Turner
    Commented Aug 10, 2015 at 15:10
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    @jqning, Thanks, that would be the opportune time to add power...
    – Jack
    Commented Sep 10, 2015 at 0:02
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    Check out the Sagulator to determine how much sag you're going to get in your desk. You'll be amazed, I think, by how much a 2" slab can support. Also, adding some front edge banding can pretty it up as well as adding a considerable amount of strength. If you don't want the banding to show, you should be able to recess it even 1/2 way back and increase your sag resistance.
    – FreeMan
    Commented May 7, 2016 at 16:50

2 Answers 2

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Your issue is less about how you'll fasten it to the wall, and more about the stiffness required to span that width. I have a very similar desk in my office made of repurposed 1-3/4" thick veneer and particle board door slabs hung only on cleats fastened with 3-inch construction screws. My situation is actually L-shaped, with one slab hanging from the other, and it's suitable for a multi-station computer desk.

2 inches of solid or engineered wood will be strong enough, but it will bounce a bit. I'd estimate the weight at around 100 lbs. It doesn't take much to support that, plus maybe another 50 lbs. of equipment.

I'd run cleats around the 3 sides. They can be almost anything of wood or metal. Even 1x4 pine would do, as long as you get appropriate fasteners into the masonry and wood framing. If you taper the front ends they'll be much less conspicuous.

I'd then install a large steel max-bracket (or two) in the center from the rear to stiffen the front of the desk. It should extend at least 2/3 the depth of the desktop. It'll be practically invisible to anyone standing nearby. Be sure to use sufficiently large lag screws here. There will be a substantial pull-out force on the upper bolts.

This arrangement will be strong enough to support the desk, your computer equipment or whatever, and the backside of any overly-casual, average sized colleagues who wander by.

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I would install a ledger on all wall areas and the free floating corner I would rabbet out under side of countertop, and wall area to install a heavy L bracket then mud the bracket on wall if need be.

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