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My OG (natural) gas water heater is installed without a sediment trap/drip leg. Since my understanding is that it is now required by code, and I am planing on selling soon, I am planning to put on one.

From reading up and watching Youtube it seems pretty straightforward: shut off gas, disconnect gas line at either appliance gas inlet or just after shut-off valve (?!), install trap with plumbers/PTFE tape, turn on gas and test for leaks (spray with some soapy water), then re-start water heater and monitor.

I am planning to use this part from Lowes Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EasyFlex-1-2-in-Gas-Sediment-Trap-Drip-Leg-EFG-TP-012/325223926

Edit: since it appears that the single-piece part in link above will not have enough clearance at the control unit to be installed (can't be rotated 360 degrees) I've decided to assemble from seperat black iron pipe parts (nipples, tee, cap). There are several good YooToob how-to vids for this...hooray.

Are there any tips or pitfalls I should know or have in mind? Is this galvanized thing they way to go? I note that the trap on my furnace feeds in horizontally, but the way the guy did it online it fed in vertically from top. Do I care? I ask only because the yellow gas feed line for the water heater has pretty much zero slack.

Water Heater: enter image description here

Sediment Trap on Furnace: enter image description here

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If'n this was me I'd keep things simple.

  1. Get a longer flex pipe. You'll need to come into the top of the trap assembly, so you need more length to keep from stretching it across open space, which is a hazard in several respects.

  2. Install a trap directly on the appliance stub. You'll need a coupler, or you'll need to remove the existing nipple and install directly to the female socket on the gas valve. In either case you'll need clearance to turn parts or wrenches, so think that through.

  3. Connect the flex pipe to the top. Create gentle, uniform coils with any excess tubing to keep it out of the way.

I prefer thread compound over tape. It's simpler and much less fussy, making joints more reliable. Apply it only to the male threads, filling the threads and wiping off excess.

If you do go with tape, note that there's special tape for gas lines. The regular white PTFE tape for plumbing isn't legal.

Do not apply force to the gas valve mount. Support it properly with a second wrench.

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  • "I prefer thread compound over tape.": Yes...the more I read up, the more folks that seem very knowledgeable and experienced say thread compound >>only<< for gas lines.
    – AA040371
    Commented Oct 31 at 17:14
  • "The regular white PTFE tape for plumbing isn't legal." Thanks...I did make sure to add the yellow tape version to my order but will also be applying a generous glop of appropriate pipe dope. But I could easily have just assumed the white tape I have sitting around would have been sufficient without this note.
    – AA040371
    Commented Nov 1 at 15:00
  • I don't like using both tape and dope, if that's what you meant. That makes no sense to me since you're essentially adding more seal points of failure (more layers, essentially).
    – isherwood
    Commented Nov 1 at 15:36
  • That is what I meant, and I'll keep your concern in mind. I was pretty much just following/mirroring how a few plumbers online were doing it. I'll do some more research but I have a feeling this is one of those topics that ends up being a "Tastes Great!/Less Filling!" thing. Sigh...
    – AA040371
    Commented Nov 1 at 15:51
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    "More is better!" Yeah...check out this guy...I think he is getting paid by the quart: youtu.be/W26xcI5eR_E?si=N_iVlaRMNXLkx72p&t=124. He's also one of them that uses tape (white!) as well, so...grain of salt is in order, I guess.
    – AA040371
    Commented Nov 1 at 22:49

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