Is this thing for EV charging? Stop and talk to us, because going for 50A and a 4-prong socket is a common novice error, danger, waste of money and/or source of trouble... and we can steer you smart.
2-2-2-4 aluminum is a fantastic choice and one of our favorites. It is 90A wire, and can support two RV stands with any mix of receptacles, per NEC 551.73. The 100' distance is not far enough for voltage drop to be a concern. Really, even 6-6-6-6 aluminum should be legal, since it is good for 50A.
And you might get lucky and find a socket that takes #2 directly. No problem finding sockets that take #6 directly (just look for AL-CU and 75C markings).
On the circuit breaker, that's a problem - most manufacturers make their 50A breaker using the same frame/terminal as 15-40A breakers, so they aren't made for #2AL.
Polaris connectors are very costly. Your best way to handle this may be to install an "RV subpanel" out at the RV stand. This is a special panel made for RV stands which has a 4-6 space subpanel, and outlets for NEMA 14-50, NEMA TT30, and/or common GFCI outlets. You can also build this yourself from any random 4-space outdoor panel (e.g. Siemens W0408ML1125U) and an outdoor 14-50 outlet with an in-use cover. You then use a 60A or 70A breaker at the main panel - these have larger lugs which will happily accept #2. You can use up to a 90A breaker actually, but 60-70A is cheaper.
If you're GFCI protecting this NEMA 14-50, the GFCI goes out here in this subpanel. It must be the correct brand match for the subpanel. (e.g. if you bought a HOM GFCI for your HOM main panel, make a point to get a HOM subpanel.)