Insulating a communications panel from attic heat

Question

I have a security system/cable tv coax/phone/LAN distribution panel in a closet off an upstairs hallway whose back is open to my attic. I have never really worried about the heat that comes through all the holes in the back of the panel, but we have just converted to fiber optic from cable and this closet is where they put the combination modem router, so I would prefer to keep it cooler. Looking for recommendations for the back of the panel. I am planning to put some foam board on the door. Would that be preferred for the panel or just staple some conventional kraft faced insulation over it? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Attic side:

Closet side:

Answer 1

I would move the panel, or at least the active components in it, out of the attic and into the conditioned space of your house.

Just putting insulation around a closed box with heat generating equipment in it is not going to help with the longevity of the equipment. Even a small amount of heat generated in a well insulated box is going to raise the internal temperature. FYI - my attic, in the Mid Atlantic, got to a temperature of 123 deg F (~50.5 C) during the past summer.

Going along with what I said in my first paragraph, I think you should reverse the equipment box, so that you access it from the conditioned side of that wall. Close off the attic side and cut an access panel on the interior side of the wall that will allow you to get to the equipment and wiring. Then you can thoroughly insulate the back side of the box (I would use foam board insulation myself) to your heart's content.

Answer 2

First, fix the gaps in the insulation above and below the panel that are evident. After that, either type of insulation will work to block direct heat (and cold) from the attic space into the panel. It would appear you should also address the insulation situation in the stud bay beside the panel, which appears to be throughly trashed.

Answer 3

I would suggest that you insulate the attic side of the cabinet to protect it from the summer heat.

However, insulating this will, potentially, cook your equipment inside the cabinet. To that end, you'll want to be sure to provide good airflow on the conditioned side of the panel.

We can't tell what the door looks like, but it is probably a solid metal panel. If it were mine, I'd take the door off, and drill several holes near the bottom (or a slot - depends on what tools you have access to), then do the same at the top. This will allow cooler, conditioned house air access to enter at the bottom and hotter air to flow out the top.

With these holes/slots created, it would be worth keeping an eye on temps inside the cabinet. If they're high (i.e. outside, or even at the upper end of, the manufacturer's specified working range - check the specs on all the equipment in there), you may need more cooling vents or a switch to active ventilation.

For active ventilation, PC cooling fans can be had very cheaply, even more cheaply if you don't mind the fan noise. You can plug one into a 5v or 12v power supply (I actually used an old PC PSU I had laying about). Mount the fan to the door at the top, blowing out (obviously, make a hole for the fan to push air through), and plug it in. This should provide enough air flow (drawing conditioned air in, pushing hot air out) to keep the temps reasonable.

You may want to also install a fan protective grill, especially if you have curious little fingers or long wet noses running around the house. Though, to be honest, a PC cooling fan will stop quite quickly if you stick your finger in it and doesn't really hurt much, if at all. Lungs attached to curious little fingers will likely let out a wail but there won't be any significant damage. The critters attached to the long, wet noses may also make a noise, but will learn very quickly that this is a thing not to be sniffed again. Fan protection is up to you...