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The previous owner put in a sub panel. 6awg plus ground is feeding it with a 50 amp breaker at the main. It is in an attached garage. I’m going to fix what he did with the bonding.

What is the metal at the arrows one going to the bar on left and one not completely going to bar on right? Just wondering if I have to do anything with this.

To fix this I’m going to leave the neutrals on the bar on right. Is it OK to put 2 bars for grounding where I circled? 2 separate bars due to the wire length coming in. And do the 2 grounding bars have to be connected?

One more question. Want to put a single pole 30 amp breaker for an RV outlet and a double pole 30 amp breaker for a dryer. Can the AC in the camper run the same time as the dryer?

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  • Your work will be made harder because someone shortened all the wires so they can barely reach their destinations now. Don't repeat the mistake, every hot and neutral should be long enough to reach any breaker in the panel. Neutral because of AFCI, GFCI and whatever they come up with in the future. Commented Sep 22, 2021 at 18:21

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The metal strip is a bonding strip between your neutral bus and your ground bus. You'll notice it isn't connected to your neutral bus which is correct for a sub panel but unfortunately, the grounds are connected to the neutral bus. You should move the copper grounds from the neutral bus over to the existing ground bus.You can splice some copper wire if the existing ground wires won't reach.

A dryer needs about 22 amps and I'm guessing the RV AC is close to 16 amps so yes, they could both run at the same time since they both would cycle on and off and not be continuous loads

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  • Thanks for the info. So I need no additional grounding strip? The one on the left I can use for ground and keep neutral on the right?
    – Joe442
    Commented Sep 22, 2021 at 16:34
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    @Joe442 That is correct. You'll notice the neutral bus is isolated from the panel whereas the ground bus is screwed directly into the panel.
    – JACK
    Commented Sep 22, 2021 at 17:01

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