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When installing vinyl planks over a wood subfloor I generally find a useful line near the middle of the room and work both directions. After placing the first row of planks I take some scrap pieces, butt them up against the row and screw them down. Also on the sides I place some shims. Now the row of planks is secured firmly. When the outer wall is reached [and thus half of the room is done] shims are placed to secure the planks in that direction. Now the screwed in scrap pieces can be removed and the second half of the room completed.

But what about a [large] concrete floor? No we're not drilling concrete screws through the scrap pieces to secure the planks! The planks do NOT stay tight on their own. In fact the joints can separate many rows back when I bang on the currently active row. [And I do have appropriate tools for this and do not over-wham the planks]. It is critical to keep the gaps to essentially nothing, but that doesn't happen by magic. Any pointers here?

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  • I'm not sure what product you're using, but none I've seen opens up as you install new rows. Quite the contrary.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jul 3 at 13:23

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Your approach is nonstandard and unnecessary. Start against a wall. Experts do it that way for good reasons.

  • Technique will be the same across the floor, making your work more consistent.

  • You can block against the wall without damaging edge profiles.

  • You'll be fiddling with edge pieces against walls less often.

My suggestion is to assemble several rows out in the room, then slide them into final position as the second row onward. Now backfill your starting edge row and block against the wall at 2-3' intervals. Carry on across the room.

One tip I discovered on a recent project, which may seem obvious in hindsight but isn't, is that you can feel whether a butt joint is tight on top of the planks. End joints can appear tight, but run your fingers across the top. If one plank is higher, they're not fully engaged.

Also, step back and look things over regularly. Check whether you missed a repeating pattern you'll regret, or that your initial row has shifted out of position. Fix problems early.

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  • I did have good reasons to start in the middle of the room. But starting at a wall is so critical as to outweigh them: and in other rooms I started at a wall.
    – WestCoastProjects
    Commented Aug 1 at 18:50
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Lay a sheet or two of plywood longside against a wall, set for square and build your floor against that.

If you do not want your planks to open up over time because of the smoothness of the concrete surface, consider supporting one end or both ends of your installation against the concrete. Once the planks are installed and tight, take some shims, back them with closed cell neoprene foam and use them as spacers to apply some tension to the floor to compensate for movement.

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Most manufactures recommend starting at a wall and working out. Consider that, since installing otherwise is counter to recommended installation methods and could void the warranty.

Your issue of joints "separating many rows back" is a direct result of using an incorrect installation method. If you start along a wall, with spacers keeping the boards the recommended distance from the wall, tapping each row in will push the rows against the spacers and keep the joints from separating.

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    It's not going to void a warranty to work in several directions. In almost any job I've ever done it's necessary to do so.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jul 3 at 13:22
  • Recommended installation method is clearly marked on the box or included in the paperwork with the product. It is clear how the product is to be installed. Installing otherwise is definitely a factor to be considered if there should be a warranty claim. There is a difference between a "necessity" to work in both directions, as may happen when transitioning to another room, and choosing to start the installation in a manner counter to the manufacturer's recommendation.
    – RMDman
    Commented Jul 3 at 13:29
  • Besides there is no advantage to starting in the middle of a room. If it is to minimise a need for a thin cut at the wall, use math and cut the starting row to allow a larger final piece. That method does not counter the recommended installation method.
    – RMDman
    Commented Jul 3 at 13:35

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