Timeline for Attaching Air Compressor To Junction Box
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
14 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jul 24, 2016 at 12:05 | comment | added | keshlam | That wasn't my comment. I just don't like hardwiring equipment that isn't actually "part of the house." It makes maintenance more difficult, and to my mind it's simply lazy. But de gustibus. | |
| Jul 24, 2016 at 11:37 | comment | added | Speedy Petey | @keshlam, not to sound rude, but your comment about not being able to take the compressor if it's hard wired is simply absurd. Even if it's in place when showing the house it would just be noted that it's not part of the sale. Same goes for lighting fixtures. Several times I have removed thousand dollar fixtures and replaced them with $2 keyless fixtures. As long as it's known up front. | |
| Jul 24, 2016 at 1:43 | vote | accept | John Hodge | ||
| Jul 24, 2016 at 1:43 | answer | added | John Hodge | timeline score: 0 | |
| Jul 19, 2016 at 2:41 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | Keshlam - 100% efficient motors don't exist, and even one of those would have to start - your currents are optimistic, and current is not the same as rated motor load anyway. Hubble (makers of Twist-Lock connectors) do list 5 HP connectors, but only in 480V, or 240V 3-phase. While a 50A range plug might work, it would not be up to code (only rated for 2 hp.) John Hodge - yes, that looks like a real 5 HP motor, at a glance. Having lived through the era when 120Volt 15 amp compressors were marketed as 5 and 6 (utterly fictional) horsepower, I had to ask. | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 19:59 | comment | added | keshlam | There are higher-amperage connectors, though they may not be available in your local store. See, for example, en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/… | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 18:53 | comment | added | John Hodge | @Ecnerwal Nameplate voltage is 208-230, Amperate 25.5-24. It currently doesn't have a plug on it, just a flex conduit coming out of the magnetic starter enclosure. | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 18:47 | comment | added | keshlam | If the compressor has a plug, it can be plugged in; you just need to be sure the circuit is rated to handle it. 5HP is 2739 watts; at 120 volts that's 22 amps, at 240V it's half that. It isn't a small appliances, but it isn't all that huge either. "If it happens, it must be possible." (My electric dryer circuit is 30A on each of its two legs...) | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 18:05 | answer | added | Ecnerwal | timeline score: 1 | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 17:56 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | @wallyK - if you disconnect it before the house is shown, (when selling) that should resolve that. John Hodge - a real 5HP or a marketing department's imagined 5 HP? Voltage and current from the nameplate? | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 16:39 | comment | added | John Hodge | The problem I'm finding with the plugs is that the highest rated one I can find is for 3 HP and this particular compress is 5 HP. I thought hard-wiring it was the only "legal" way to do it. | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 16:31 | comment | added | wallyk | If the compressor is direct wired, it means (in most jurisdictions) that you cannot take it when you move. A plug and outlet is a little more expensive to install, but it adds serviceability, modularity, and you can easily move the compressor to a job site. If the compressor has no cord, just install a pigtail (as for a range or electric dryer) if it is 240 volt, or a standard cord for 120 volt. | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 16:24 | comment | added | keshlam | Don't. Wire in an outlet box and plug the compressor into that. | |
| Jul 18, 2016 at 16:05 | history | asked | John Hodge | CC BY-SA 3.0 |