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The discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. The required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. Your connection should go something like this:

1. Connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be

2. Trap assembly and a cleanout port

3. T-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up

4. Drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.

5. Vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.

6. Support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple.

here is how you would do it in southern Ontario. The discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. The required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. Your connection should go something like this:

1. Connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be

2. Trap assembly and a cleanout port

3. T-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up

4. Drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.

5. Vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.

6. Support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple.

*** edited so Michael Karas doesn't get dehydrated from crying so much about my writing and grammar***

The discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. The required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. Your connection should go something like this:

1. connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be

2. trap assembly and a cleanout port

3. t-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up

4. drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.

5. vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.

6. support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple

Done

The discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. The required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. Your connection should go something like this:

1. Connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be

2. Trap assembly and a cleanout port

3. T-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up

4. Drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.

5. Vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.

6. Support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple.

discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. the required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. your connection should go something like this:

1. connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be
2. trap assembly and a cleanout port
3. t-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up
4. drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.
5. vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.
6. support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple

done

*** edited so Michael Karas doesn't get dehydrated from crying so much about my writing and grammar***

The discharge line on a washing machine requirement is 1.5" pipe. The required slope is 1" drop in 8ft, but do yourself a favour and make it 1" in 4ft so you should be able to start at your existing 2" hub and go up 7" total for your run over the 30ft. Your connection should go something like this:

1. connection nipple for discharge line from washer, best to be vertical (up), but can be horizontal if need be

2. trap assembly and a cleanout port

3. t-straight (not t-y) fitting with drain horizontal out and vent vertical up

4. drain line on downhill slope over to stack and into t-y (with the t-y) in the correct orientation (the water wants to always flow down, not up). you can tie this into your existing hub with a reducing coupling.

5. vent line on uphill slope over to stack to a new t-straight. you have to cut the stack t have enough removed from it so that you can insert the new t-straight with a couple of nipples attached. usually around 12" with 3" ABS DWV. then you slide a fernco (rubber coupling) or MJ style (mechanical/rubber) over the bottom of the original stack pipe and one over the top of the original (use dish soap to lube it up). then assemble all. tip - fit it all first, then glue it second.

6. support all pipes every 4 ft with grapple bar connected to whatever is behind it. if need be, run a 2x4 from floor to ceiling to attach the grapple

Done