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Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets (the fridge does however need to be AFCI'ed - if it's new work).


According to @Tester101's answer (drawing from the 2014 NEC) there are two exceptions.

GFCI required:

  • Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.

    Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.

     
  • Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

    Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

From what I can tell (I do not have a copy of the 2014 NEC), these are the only two exceptions to the need of either a GFCI or an AFCI - for new work. Apparently, all other locations that do not require GFCIs, require AFCIs - for new work.


IMO, you should not arbitrarily swap out outlets; old work only has to have complied with code at the time of installation. However, I see little reason not to swap out any and all convenience outlets to GFCI's (if you want to). Unless required by code for the new work I'm doing, there's no way I'd put hundreds of dollars worth of food on a GFCI outlet that's dedicated to a fridge.

Code jargon aside, the OP asked for any reason you wouldn't want either type of outlet installed. My number one concern about them failing is the spoiled food you'll have in your fridge while trying to better protect an outlet that you'd have to pull the fridge out to use otherwise.

IMO, this is the one place "you are better off without one."


All statistics are to be taken with a grain of salt; mildly relevant:

Each year, there is an estimated average of 60 electrocutions associated with consumer products. –www.esfi.org


CDC estimates that each year roughly 1 in 6 Americans (or 48 million people) get sick, 128,000 are hospitalized, and 3,000 die of foodborne diseases. –www.cdc.gov

Pick your poison.

Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets (the fridge does however need to be AFCI'ed - if it's new work).


According to @Tester101's answer (drawing from the 2014 NEC) there are two exceptions.

GFCI required:

  • Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.
     
  • Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

From what I can tell (I do not have a copy of the 2014 NEC), these are the only two exceptions to the need of either a GFCI or an AFCI - for new work. Apparently, all other locations that do not require GFCIs, require AFCIs - for new work.


IMO, you should not arbitrarily swap out outlets; old work only has to have complied with code at the time of installation. However, I see little reason not to swap out any and all convenience outlets to GFCI's (if you want to). Unless required by code for the new work I'm doing, there's no way I'd put hundreds of dollars worth of food on a GFCI outlet that's dedicated to a fridge.

Code jargon aside, the OP asked for any reason you wouldn't want either type of outlet installed. My number one concern about them failing is the spoiled food you'll have in your fridge while trying to better protect an outlet that you'd have to pull the fridge out to use otherwise.

IMO, this is the one place "you are better off without one."


All statistics are to be taken with a grain of salt; mildly relevant:

Each year, there is an estimated average of 60 electrocutions associated with consumer products. –www.esfi.org


CDC estimates that each year roughly 1 in 6 Americans (or 48 million people) get sick, 128,000 are hospitalized, and 3,000 die of foodborne diseases. –www.cdc.gov

Pick your poison.

Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets (the fridge does however need to be AFCI'ed - if it's new work).


According to @Tester101's answer (drawing from the 2014 NEC) there are two exceptions.

GFCI required:

  • Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.

  • Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

From what I can tell (I do not have a copy of the 2014 NEC), these are the only two exceptions to the need of either a GFCI or an AFCI - for new work. Apparently, all other locations that do not require GFCIs, require AFCIs - for new work.


IMO, you should not arbitrarily swap out outlets; old work only has to have complied with code at the time of installation. However, I see little reason not to swap out any and all convenience outlets to GFCI's (if you want to). Unless required by code for the new work I'm doing, there's no way I'd put hundreds of dollars worth of food on a GFCI outlet that's dedicated to a fridge.

Code jargon aside, the OP asked for any reason you wouldn't want either type of outlet installed. My number one concern about them failing is the spoiled food you'll have in your fridge while trying to better protect an outlet that you'd have to pull the fridge out to use otherwise.

IMO, this is the one place "you are better off without one."


All statistics are to be taken with a grain of salt; mildly relevant:

Each year, there is an estimated average of 60 electrocutions associated with consumer products. –www.esfi.org


CDC estimates that each year roughly 1 in 6 Americans (or 48 million people) get sick, 128,000 are hospitalized, and 3,000 die of foodborne diseases. –www.cdc.gov

Pick your poison.

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Mazura
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Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets (the fridge does however need to be AFCI'ed - if it's new work).


According to @Tester101's answer (drawing from the 2014 NEC) there are two exceptions.

GFCI required:

  • Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.
  • Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

From what I can tell (I do not have a copy of the 2014 NEC), these are the only two exceptions to the need of either a GFCI or an AFCI - for new work. Apparently, all other locations that do not require GFCIs, require AFCIs - for new work.


IMO, you should not arbitrarily swap out outlets; old work only has to have complied with code at the time of installation. However, I see little reason not to swap out any and all convenience outlets to GFCI's (if you want to). Unless required by code for the new work I'm doing, there's no way I'd put hundreds of dollars worth of food on a GFCI outlet that's dedicated to a fridge.

Code jargon aside, the OP asked for any reason you wouldn't want either type of outlet installed. My number one concern about them failing is the spoiled food you'll have in your fridge while trying to better protect an outlet that you'd have to pull the fridge out to use otherwise.

IMO, this is the one place "you are better off without one."


All statistics are to be taken with a grain of salt; mildly relevant:

Each year, there is an estimated average of 60 electrocutions associated with consumer products. –www.esfi.org


CDC estimates that each year roughly 1 in 6 Americans (or 48 million people) get sick, 128,000 are hospitalized, and 3,000 die of foodborne diseases. –www.cdc.gov

Pick your poison.

Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets.

Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets (the fridge does however need to be AFCI'ed - if it's new work).


According to @Tester101's answer (drawing from the 2014 NEC) there are two exceptions.

GFCI required:

  • Outdoors, except where receptacles on dedicated circuits are not readily accessible, and are used to supply snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment.
  • Unfinished basements, unless the receptacle is on a dedicated circuit and used to supply a burglar alarm.

From what I can tell (I do not have a copy of the 2014 NEC), these are the only two exceptions to the need of either a GFCI or an AFCI - for new work. Apparently, all other locations that do not require GFCIs, require AFCIs - for new work.


IMO, you should not arbitrarily swap out outlets; old work only has to have complied with code at the time of installation. However, I see little reason not to swap out any and all convenience outlets to GFCI's (if you want to). Unless required by code for the new work I'm doing, there's no way I'd put hundreds of dollars worth of food on a GFCI outlet that's dedicated to a fridge.

Code jargon aside, the OP asked for any reason you wouldn't want either type of outlet installed. My number one concern about them failing is the spoiled food you'll have in your fridge while trying to better protect an outlet that you'd have to pull the fridge out to use otherwise.

IMO, this is the one place "you are better off without one."


All statistics are to be taken with a grain of salt; mildly relevant:

Each year, there is an estimated average of 60 electrocutions associated with consumer products. –www.esfi.org


CDC estimates that each year roughly 1 in 6 Americans (or 48 million people) get sick, 128,000 are hospitalized, and 3,000 die of foodborne diseases. –www.cdc.gov

Pick your poison.

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Mazura
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Do not install GFCIs onfor dedicated circuitsfridge outlets.

All outlets that support convenience plug in items within 8 feet of a water source must be GFI protected. However, the new NEC calls for a separate non GFI circuit (home run) for the fridge or other fixed appliances. These non protected circuits must be single purpose and wired to a single outlet or direct wired and dedicated to the appliance. This can include dishwashers, garbage disposers, vent fans, and most permanent motor loads. –shirlock homes, Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI?

Do not install GFCIs on dedicated circuits.

All outlets that support convenience plug in items within 8 feet of a water source must be GFI protected. However, the new NEC calls for a separate non GFI circuit (home run) for the fridge or other fixed appliances. These non protected circuits must be single purpose and wired to a single outlet or direct wired and dedicated to the appliance. This can include dishwashers, garbage disposers, vent fans, and most permanent motor loads. –shirlock homes, Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI?

Do not install GFCIs for dedicated fridge outlets.

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