Timeline for How can I childproof this 1957 cooktop?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
6 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Apr 15, 2015 at 21:24 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | Looks suitable, so long as you park it in an appropriately large enclosure. I rather prefer a closed style relay, given the choice of closed or open, but either will work. | |
| Apr 15, 2015 at 19:55 | vote | accept | tmdesigned | ||
| Apr 15, 2015 at 18:08 | comment | added | tmdesigned | like this? | |
| Apr 15, 2015 at 15:27 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | For a 240V USA-type system with two hot lines, you want a double pole relay and you switch BOTH hot lines. I would use one with a 120VAC coil and a timer switching 120VAC, for simplicity - that could be run off any convenient 120VAC circuit in the kitchen. Switching only one hot line can lead to unpleasant unexpected consequences when you think things are "OFF" but there's still 120V to ground/neutral. | |
| Apr 15, 2015 at 13:27 | comment | added | tmdesigned | Thank you for the tip about relays. I have researched them and mostly understand how they work. One of the cooktop wires would be connected as usual, and the other would go through the N/O connector on the relay. My question is how is the signal for the relay (the timer switch) powered? i.sstatic.net/1qY0h.jpg | |
| Apr 15, 2015 at 12:13 | history | answered | Ecnerwal | CC BY-SA 3.0 |
