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Jan 31, 2015 at 21:30 answer added iLikeDirt timeline score: 2
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Mar 4, 2014 at 22:29 history tweeted twitter.com/#!/StackDIY/status/440977291087081472
Mar 4, 2014 at 20:20 comment added DMoore I would glue/nail down the top and bottoms and leave a very small gap. Also in my area 2x2s would cost about the same as a decent furring strip - although I am introducing top/bottom plate.
Mar 4, 2014 at 20:17 comment added ChiefTwoPencils @DMoore: OK, so should this wall be floating? Normally, I would frame a wall and stand it up snug and ramset it to the slab, but I've heard of concerns about the three different materials (wood, cinderblock, and poured slab) moving at different rates due to the weather and can cause "bucking" in the wall.
Mar 4, 2014 at 20:08 comment added DMoore The problem I have with furring strips is they take on the shape of the wall. 2x2s will at least be straight. Much easier to hang drywall and mud without "curves" everywhere. I will do furring strips on framing or for stuff like wood paneling/fake brick but not drywall. Wood handles moisture better than drywall so I would say that there is no good way to tell. I could hose down plywood on furring strips and as long as I gave it a decent chance to dry in a day or two you might never notice.
Mar 4, 2014 at 20:04 comment added ChiefTwoPencils @DMoore: originally these houses had no wall or exterior coverings, so not really. I found that these walls have natural insulating qualities. I'm meeting an energy auditor in a couple days, I'll see what he says about that. So, you're saying instead of the cheap furring strips use normal 2x2 studs. Any thought on the moisture? Do you think the evidence is good enough not to worry about it?
Mar 4, 2014 at 19:59 comment added DMoore You not worried about insulation? You could just frame up normally using 2x2s. This would give you enough room to run electrical with shallow boxes.
Mar 4, 2014 at 19:51 comment added ChiefTwoPencils @bib: I thought of that. The problem is the guy built out a bunch. For example the sink wall had a 4" chase behind it. So we wanted to reclaim space. When we tried to demo only the necessary parts we found the whole room was built like cabinetry, interlocking at the joints between the walls as well as the custom ceiling. I might have been able to do it with large amounts of time and patience; at least one of which I don't have.
Mar 4, 2014 at 19:41 comment added bib If there is no current problem, why not simply glue or screw the drywall to the plywood?
Mar 4, 2014 at 19:41 history edited ChiefTwoPencils CC BY-SA 3.0
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Mar 4, 2014 at 19:32 history asked ChiefTwoPencils CC BY-SA 3.0