Timeline for How do I fill a wide gap between tile and other flooring / sill plate?
Current License: CC BY-SA 2.5
9 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sep 18, 2011 at 14:36 | vote | accept | Mark Edington | ||
| Sep 18, 2011 at 14:36 | comment | added | Mark Edington | The plastic door stop I mentioned worked out great. It's been holding up well as has the caulk (about 1/8" wide) between it and the tile. | |
| Jan 5, 2011 at 5:24 | comment | added | Mark Edington | I picked up some plastic door stop (polymer extrusion) from the hardware store last week that should be just the right width but I'll need to rip it down to the right height. Since it's plastic it won't be susceptible to water damage but it only came in white so I'll have to see if I can find a durable way to finish it black. I haven't had time to work on finishing up my project because of the holidays but I'll report back and let you know how this works out. | |
| Dec 23, 2010 at 22:26 | comment | added | Mark Edington | Thanks Mike, the aluminum bar stock is along the lines of what I was thinking. I also considered some type of hard plastic if I can find something that will work. The aluminum sill is anodized dark bronze (it's almost black) so if I go that route I can just use some type of black plastic. If I use aluminum stock, I'll need paint it or apply some other type of finish to darken it up to match. The sill plate is mounted under from the bottom under the jambs (a pre-hung door), so it can't re removed, so I'll have to use some type of adhesive to attach the filler. | |
| Dec 23, 2010 at 2:56 | comment | added | Mike Powell | It's also possible your grout was older than mine -- 4 years isn't exactly a great test of its longevity. Also see my edit above for another suggestion. | |
| Dec 23, 2010 at 2:56 | history | edited | Mike Powell | CC BY-SA 2.5 |
Added another suggestion
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| Dec 23, 2010 at 1:30 | comment | added | Mark Edington | Regarding using just grout. I'm thinking there is will be too much movement (also expansion/contraction) of the sill for that to really work. It's funny you mentioned the grout adjacent to the tub. I had the opposite experience. When we first bought our home, one of the first jobs I had to do was chip out grout that had been installed next to a cast iron bath tub. It was cracked and there was also a 1/8" gap at the center of the tub. I ended up filling it with silicone caulk but it doesn't look that great as the gap is larger than the 1/4" max recommended for most caulks. | |
| Dec 23, 2010 at 1:15 | comment | added | Mark Edington | Mike, thanks for the tips. I've looked at some sill extensions and I'm not sure if there is a type that would work. My sill is shaped like this: absupply.net/PDF/Pemko_140_Cutsheet.pdf and the tile butts up against the left side. It seems like most sill extensions would work only on the tapered right side. This sill is part of a fire-rated garage entry door that I installed directly on the sub-floor before laying the tile. The tile is laid on 1/2" cement board so there is actually very little height difference between the tile and the 1 1/8" tall sill which is nice. | |
| Dec 21, 2010 at 18:02 | history | answered | Mike Powell | CC BY-SA 2.5 |