Timeline for How do I remove paint from a porous table top?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
6 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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| Nov 2, 2013 at 6:13 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | Sure the rag idea works. Be aware that very fine steel wool partially breaks down in use and creates a debris that takes concerted effort to get out of inside corners and cracks. | |
| Nov 2, 2013 at 2:17 | comment | added | SBerg413 | To remove sanding debris, is a quick wipe down w/ a rag dipped in mineral salts OK? | |
| Nov 2, 2013 at 2:14 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | You want to sand lightly through the grit levels before doing any finishing. When you put the first coat of of finish over the stain I recommend a light sanding to smooth the finish after it has fully dried. The reason for this is that the finish will capture any dry with any stray surface wood fibers raised up. A light sanding with 220 - 320 or - 400 grit "wet/dry" style sand paper or very fine steel wool will cut all those down to a very smooth finish before the next finish layer. When you do this post finish sanding it is essential to get every bit of sanding debris removed. | |
| Nov 1, 2013 at 20:41 | comment | added | SBerg413 | Thanks for the reply. I decided against the paint solvent. I've double my effort with the sanding, both with the orbital sander and, in certain spots, just by hand. Progress is slow, but noticeable. One quick additional question - when sanding before finish, do i use 80 - 150 - 220 grits before poly? Also, stain just before poly or before I start sanding for the final finish? | |
| Nov 1, 2013 at 20:38 | vote | accept | SBerg413 | ||
| Oct 28, 2013 at 1:09 | history | answered | Michael Karas♦ | CC BY-SA 3.0 |