Timeline for Are deep-cycle batteries for off-grid power tolerant of temperature changes?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
11 events
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| Oct 19, 2023 at 11:06 | comment | added | jay613 | @MikeB expensive and inefficient compared to what? Bearing in mind all the information in the question. | |
| Oct 19, 2023 at 9:35 | comment | added | MikeB | Powering anything via a car's engine is a horribly expensive/in-efficient way of doing things, and the risk of killing the car's battery so that you can't then get home seems like a poor idea to me. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 14:23 | comment | added | jay613 | @dandavis I agree an answer with more detail would be great. I have even acknowledged that in my answer. And we can delete all these comments if you do it. Would be good if you expound on "13.5V battery". What is that? My suggestion to use vehicle outlet with engine off will probably produce around 11V on average, or with engine on maybe high 12s. Large stanadlone Li batteries are common in 12V and 24V Etc. No need to discuss here ... just would be a good part of an answer. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 14:22 | history | edited | jay613 | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 143 characters in body
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| Oct 18, 2023 at 13:54 | comment | added | Chris H | Lights designed to run off "12V" DC, from very similar batteries, are sold not just for automotive but for caravan/RV/camping applications. There's quite a range available | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 13:14 | comment | added | FreeMan | @dandavis I'd suggest that your recommendation is worthy of a full answer of its own. That way you can add more details than can reasonably fit in a comment or six. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 11:30 | comment | added | user1937198 | One advantage of this approach, is if in future the OP does want to invest in dedicated deep cycle batteries, potentially with solar in future, then they can easily connect that to this system. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 1:56 | comment | added | dandavis | Less power is less battery/weight and a longer run time. It's the strip version of the "dubai lamp"; over-build and under-power. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 1:52 | comment | added | jay613 | @dandavis that's brilliant. I did not think of maximizing LED efficiency. In my yard I use 15V and #12 wire to get 13V at the far end but that's minimizing cable cost. Here, maximizing battery life is priority so If OP follows your advice he should also use heavier wire and short parallel runs to minimize voltage drop. IDK what your suggestion does to my "cheap and easy" parameters but it's probably worth it. | |
| Oct 18, 2023 at 1:27 | comment | added | dandavis | After shucking and gutting many models of them, I can offer that a lot of landscape lights are not very efficient. The have bridge rectifiers so they can accept AC, which kills 1.5v/"12v" into heat, and the drivers on them are hot throughout, which means waste heat. LED strip is a lot better. To max out lumens/watt, use a DC-DC buck converter (90-98% efficient) to feed 12v strip 11v from a 13.5v battery. This setup won't be as bright, so use 50% extra strips. Above 10V, all the power is spent by the resistors in strip, so you have less waste and higher efficacy at 11v, at higher up-front cost. | |
| Oct 17, 2023 at 20:48 | history | answered | jay613 | CC BY-SA 4.0 |