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Jul 6, 2023 at 16:22 answer added Ecnerwal timeline score: 1
Jul 6, 2023 at 15:16 comment added MonkeyZeus Certainly feel free to self-answer your question as it may help others in the future!
Jul 6, 2023 at 15:15 comment added MonkeyZeus Glad to hear you made things right and fixed your issue! Anytime I think "This task doesn't seem too difficult", the house always silently replies "Bless your heart"
Jul 6, 2023 at 14:56 comment added joshhouse Cont'd: Need to get a new flapper for the toilet which I may have a spare from the kit I bought awhile back.....house stuff never ends. Thank you all for your help-the cursing, smells and loss of one drill bit to the depths of hades will not stop me from learning this stuff.
Jul 6, 2023 at 14:54 comment added joshhouse Update: PB penetrating after 10 sprays over 5 hours did not loosen the remaining broken bolts-of the 8 bolts-all 8 broke off. I was unable to successfully backout those with the kits I bought after breaking some bits but was able to push the bolts out the other side of the sump basin lip. Added larger bolts-not all took, but added a new foam seal-caulking and tapped in new bolts/nuts to the lip of the basin. I've had 50 lbs of weight holding down the basin lid. Regarding the constant flow of water: yup, turned off the water to the toilet downstairs and it immediately stopped flowing.
Jul 6, 2023 at 14:48 comment added MonkeyZeus Any luck? Did the cursing help? 😅
Jul 5, 2023 at 21:56 comment added joshhouse I did confirm it's sump and mascerator pit-I got the PB penetrating catalyst and I got a couple of drill out kits but having a hell of a time figuring it all out :P. I shall curse away.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:42 comment added MonkeyZeus Also, are you positive it's a sump pit? Have you traced where those pipes lead and confirmed that water is ejected? Radon mitigation lids looks quite similar.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:28 comment added MonkeyZeus Try spraying some PB Penetrating Catalyst on them 2 or 3 times fifteen minutes apart. That stuff works wonders for car work. The ones which have snapped off will have to be drilled out. I'm not terribly surprised that they're snapping off considering that a sump pit is always damp. Feel free to curse at the installer who chose a rusting metal over something like stainless steel or brass.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:18 comment added Fresh Codemonger Since this is really a sewer mascerator pit you do need an air tight seal. You might be able to re-tap the existing holes one diameter larger to mechanically fasten or you silicon it and then install some metal strapping and just tap con that into the slab.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:16 comment added joshhouse How do I back out those rusted screws? Heads snapped off and while I haven't taken off the lid yet-the fact that these are so rusted makes me thinks there's an improper seal or no seal at all on the current setup-we didn't install.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:09 comment added MonkeyZeus Yes, you'll need to remove the bolts or nuts to access the pit. The lid should be mechanically re-fastened after you are done so that no one accidentally falls in. It's no accident that you see 8 bolt holes around the lid. No, silicone is not a mechanical fastener. A small child falling in head first will have traumatic consequences.
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:02 comment added joshhouse In regards to the rusted out bolts/screws. Can I go ahead and remove the rest and just do a silicone caulking?
Jul 5, 2023 at 19:01 comment added joshhouse It's cracked on the plumbers putty actually, here is an image and you can see the crack. imgur.com/gallery/CAIzgG5
Jul 5, 2023 at 18:57 comment added MonkeyZeus Where is the PVC cracked? The sump likely cannot achieve proper siphoning due to unexpected air. You test it by dumping water in the pit.
S Jul 5, 2023 at 18:53 review First questions
Jul 6, 2023 at 11:55
S Jul 5, 2023 at 18:53 history asked joshhouse CC BY-SA 4.0