Timeline for Add separate switch for light and fan, power comes into the fixture
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
6 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oct 12, 2022 at 4:03 | vote | accept | Rudy | ||
| Oct 12, 2022 at 4:03 | |||||
| Aug 2, 2022 at 18:41 | comment | added | Rudy | @Harper-I think I’m on the same page as you now. So I will be all right as long as I am connecting the new 14/2’s neutral (white) to the existing 14/3’s white at the switch and then connect the other end of the existing 14/3’s white to the white of the fan/light, correct? | |
| Aug 2, 2022 at 18:23 | comment | added | Harper - Reinstate Monica | @Rudy both supply hot and neutral must go down the new cable. That means supply neutral will pass right through the fan without being used by the fan! This is important! Neutral has to come back up the /3 cable. NEC 300.3. If you don't understand why, you are thinking in DC power. | |
| Aug 2, 2022 at 2:11 | comment | added | Rudy | So, if I’m understanding you @harper, the existing 14/2 (carrying the hot) can be connected to a new 14/2 at the fan box (FYI, I plan to put a new junction box near the existing fan box for that…not much room in the pancake box). The new 14/2 will carry the hot into the switch box, where I can join it with the 14/2 that is leaving the switch box as well as jumper it to the two switches. Then the existing 14/3 red/black carry switched power back to the light/fan. Neutrals connected and grounds connected at all 3 locations (fan/light box, new j-box, switch box). Does that sound about right? | |
| Aug 1, 2022 at 21:16 | history | edited | Harper - Reinstate Monica | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 1123 characters in body
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| Aug 1, 2022 at 21:11 | history | answered | Harper - Reinstate Monica | CC BY-SA 4.0 |