Timeline for How can I remove the wires from this lamp holder?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
10 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nov 18, 2014 at 15:06 | vote | accept | Nanne | ||
| Feb 18, 2013 at 7:19 | comment | added | Nanne | Check thanks! I feel your information should be molded into an answer. If you feel up to it I'll accept it, if not I'll add the tips to my own answer for easy reading. | |
| Feb 17, 2013 at 8:09 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | If you have the tools to solder and the wires will not flex in usage then I would simply go the route of soldering the wires into a solid round shape so they can properly engage the poke in connectors. Do not forget to make sure to add those two heat resistant jackets to the wires. Trying to find a source for the brass type wire sleeves is a pain. Even if you can find them the cost to procure just two pieces will be prohibitively expensive. | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:58 | comment | added | Nanne | You're right, I used "iron" as wrong word for "anything looking slightly like that", but I get what you mean :). The cord will not be flexed I think, because it is fixed a bit higher up, but never say never :). Is it easy to get something for myself to apply those sleeves? I can solder a bit, that would be no problem, but if I'm going to be changing it anyway, I might as well try to get it sleeved like it was? | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:35 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | (cont from prev comment) does not create the same defined boundary to the strands of the wire and they can move around with respect to each other while cord flex happens. As a result the strand cracking is very much reduced. | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:33 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | It is rather doubtful that the sleeve was made of iron. Much more likely it was a thin brass material. An adaptation for the stranded wire that can work is to solder the ends of the wire to make it "solid". This can work in a safe manner as long as there is little or no flexing of the wires in the area of the socket during normal usage of the lamp. Soldering puts a firm bond between all the wire strands and if the wire moves around the small strands just at the edge boundary of the solder will have a tendency to crack off over time. On the other hand the crimp in sleeve (cont in next comment) | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:19 | comment | added | Nanne | I think I see what you mean, there was some sort of extra iron part on the default wire (crimp on sleeve?). I believe the current fix is save, but for completeness of this question: is there a way to adapt normal wire to something that fits in here? | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:11 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | The point of my previous comment is that if you try to shove stranded wire down into the typical poke in spring loaded contact you are going to get an unsafe situation where the contact can be intermittent or be loose and lead to overheating in the contact area. This overheating can at the worst case lead to a fire. If fire does not happen the heat in the contacts can lead to heat damage to the plastic lamp socket causing it to become brittle and prone to breakage. | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 14:05 | comment | added | Michael Karas♦ | One thing to watch out for. If that lamp fixture is a typical plug in unit it will be equipped with a stranded wire cord. On the other hand the type of crappy terminals in that lamp holder that use push in spring type contacts are not normally designed for use with stranded wire. As such you may notice that the wire ends that you removed from the spring loaded poke-in terminals may be specially adapted with a crimp on sleeve on the end of the wires. | |
| Feb 16, 2013 at 10:40 | history | answered | Nanne | CC BY-SA 3.0 |