Timeline for How can I extend PVC Conduit already installed?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
14 events
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Jan 13, 2022 at 19:24 | vote | accept | Austin Seward | ||
Jan 13, 2022 at 19:22 | comment | added | FreeMan | @AustinSeward I'm not sure of the specifics, but in many cases, the ground wire is allowed to be smaller than the current carrying wires. 99.999999% of the time, it's not carrying any current at all and when it is, it's only for a few seconds before the breaker trips. Therefore it can be smaller (in some circumstances) and still be code legal. | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 19:01 | comment | added | JACK | @AustinSeward #10 THWN (assume) can have a 30 Amp breaker if the entire circuit is #10. The 20 Amp breaker is correct in this case because the wire changes from #10 to #12 in the disconnect. If you replace the #12 with #10, you can increase the breaker to a 30 Amp. Get a 30 Amp double pole breaker and connect the red wire to it and have a 120/240V sub panel. This would allow for some 15 and 20 Amp dedicated circuits. | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 17:58 | comment | added | Austin Seward | On a second reading, you're right. I think the idea of keeping the disconnect and running conduit directly into a subpanel makes more sense. @JACK The breaker is a 20amp (image below). The hots are #10 but I did notice the GND is #12 (3.31mm), and I'm not sure why - that's leftover from the previous owner. The conduit is 3/4" schedule 40. I guess something else I hadn't researched enough was whether the 20amp breaker would support at least 1 dedicated circuit from the subpanel for a freezer to avoid trips. !breaker. | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 3:37 | comment | added | ThreePhaseEel | @JACK -- it's something a lot of inspectors miss, but it's a listing violation (LFNC is listed to be used with its mating fittings, not cemented directly into hubs) | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 3:35 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | Use the disconnect (i.e. the first paragraph) is the simplest and least fuss way to do this. Stick some conduit into the back opening and head inside with it - it's a wide spot in the conduit and a disconnecting means, with no need to go find more conduit parts to replace it with. | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 3:05 | comment | added | JACK | @ThreePhaseEel Edited answer to state ENT. I see LFNC connected into PVC hubs all over South Florida and inspectors pass it all the time. Is this debatable? I remember you correcting this with me before. | |
Jan 13, 2022 at 2:58 | history | edited | JACK | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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Jan 13, 2022 at 1:02 | comment | added | ThreePhaseEel | I'd use the LB but use ENT instead of the LFNC (ENT is listed to be connected into PVC hub fittings while LFNC is decidedly not) | |
Jan 12, 2022 at 22:53 | comment | added | Greg Hill | @AustinSeward The way I read it, Jack's first paragraph essentially says "don't remove this disconnect box -- use it as a junction box." If there's no external reason why this disconnect box must be removed, then use this as simply a place to splice the underground conductors to new in-building conductors running to your new subpanel. The building has to have a disconnect somewhere, but if you prefer not to have that here, then splice the wires directly and leave the disconnect parts unused. | |
Jan 12, 2022 at 21:54 | history | edited | JACK | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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Jan 12, 2022 at 20:14 | comment | added | JACK | @AustinSeward We'll need to know the wire size, breaker size and conduit size. Edit your question to add that. I was thinking the length issue would require replacement of the wire but then also thought of the load. | |
Jan 12, 2022 at 19:53 | comment | added | Austin Seward | I hoped to avoid replacing the previous wires from the breaker to the panel. I'll say, I have little experience and this is just an opportunity for me to get started. Is replacing the wires a necessity due to the length probably falling short, or for another reason I'm missing? Part of the reason I'd hope to avoid it is the conduit runs about 50ft | |
Jan 12, 2022 at 19:37 | history | answered | JACK | CC BY-SA 4.0 |