Timeline for Underground garage supply conduit standoff
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
11 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan 4, 2022 at 6:13 | vote | accept | Wray | ||
| Jan 2, 2022 at 0:56 | comment | added | Wray | Great idea, thanks!!! I’ve got a few irrigation (lawn sprinkler) control boxes (rated for only 30 v but they have 600 v waterproof conduit inside) in case I can’t find the real deal. No problem with driving over it, it’s on the back wall of the garage under a gravel path. I hear you on the 45s. I do all of my 2” and 3” irrigation work with 45s. Tolerant of misalignment and the joint walls don’t get eroded by the sand slurry they call irr. water here | |
| Jan 1, 2022 at 20:57 | history | edited | Ecnerwal | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 784 characters in body
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| Jan 1, 2022 at 20:41 | comment | added | Ecnerwal | Unusual to bury a conduit body. For access (such as a pull point or repair splice point) in the buried part of the run, typical to use a hand-hole - there are light-duty plastic ones that will handle a lawnmower, and heavy duty reinforced concrete ones you can drive a truck over. Conduit just stubs up into them (pro tip - stub up with 45's, not 90's) as they have no bottom, just sides and a top. Any splices made in them must be fully waterproofed. | |
| Jan 1, 2022 at 20:13 | comment | added | Wray | Looking at nec 2008 314.29 & 30, you cant bury a conduit body EXCEPT when covered by gravel, etc. & not requiring tearing up a sidewalk, etc to get to it. And you mark the box access point. And it’s located so you can’t drive a tractor over it. Presumably a garden gnome would be compliant for marking | |
| Jan 1, 2022 at 18:59 | comment | added | Wray | Another thought on the 360. I need to use LBs ‘cause there isn’t enough height to use 2x 90 degree sweeps. Just need to keep the LBs out of the ground (I think they have to be out of the ground?) | |
| Jan 1, 2022 at 16:36 | comment | added | Wray | Therefore no permit for “Old Work”, just code compliant and clean work required. New Years Eve reading of my nec 2008 code book suggests that the ground exit doesn’t need to be tight against the building, just that ground exit is “supported” and “protected from damage”. Would tying the stub to the exterior wall with 18” 3/8” all-thread standoffs be “codelike”? Also thought of using a welded Unistrut frame like I do my agricultural irrigation 2” ground exits. | |
| Jan 1, 2022 at 16:12 | comment | added | Wray | Thanks, I have about 8’ of extra wire sticking out of the stub at the garage end the old garage wiring and I can move the subpanel closer to where the stub comes out of the ground so wire length isn't a problem. just remembered that the ground is frozen, and if I’ve got any water in the conduit in the last 15 years, I won’t be able to pull it back till spring. So I think my only option is to cut the conduit at the garage and thread new conduit over the wire from the garage end. I’m in a rural “don’t even think about getting an inspector out here this month” zone, nobody gets permits here | |
| Dec 31, 2021 at 20:20 | comment | added | Harper - Reinstate Monica | Transitioning the sweep to Rigid would add 2 more 90 degree sweeps. The increased pulling forces would be considerable - I doubt 6" of earth is enough to tamp the conduit down against those forces. There's a 360 degree limit so any bends besides the two stub-ups would put you over limit. | |
| Dec 30, 2021 at 23:52 | comment | added | Wray | But seemed like a good idea at the time. Took 1/2” rope, my farm jack, and a bottle of lube to pull 100’. I’m not sure I can pull it back. I don’t mind cutting the pvc as long as I can get two hands on it. (Oscillating saw). Brainstorming: Can I transition the sweep to rigid at 6”(?). Or can I use 3/8” allthread rod standoffs? Or for that matter just build a short “wall” off the house? | |
| Dec 30, 2021 at 23:11 | history | answered | Ecnerwal | CC BY-SA 4.0 |