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* unless you're very clear on how GE's double-stuff (thin/narrow) 2-pole breakers work - they're not like quads at all, and not like quads). With small panels, you'll find you can't support as many 2-pole breakers as you thought you could!

* unless you're very clear on how GE's double-stuff (thin/narrow) 2-pole breakers work - they're not like quads at all). With small panels, you'll find you can't support as many 2-pole breakers as you thought you could!

8 spaces for clarity. Pick any panel size you want. Grounds omitted for clarity. Note how every circuit taps neutral. Also note "outer/inner" way you tap a quadplex. Not illustrated: outer handle-ties on the quadplex.

Branch circuit wire colors for clarity; feel free to use black/white.

As long as you wire your grounds, and have 1 (temporary?) receptacle on each circuit, you can use a common 3-light tester to make sure you didn't accidentally exchange hot and neutral on the breaker.

All the breakers must be common-trip. Why? Because you can't abide a situation where neutral trips, but hot does not trip. The circuit would be inoperative, and seem dead, but would be live.

But another big problem is neutral switching. It needs to be done. On utility, you have neutral and ground separated. On inverter, the inverter bonds neutral and ground, and this isn't disconnected by a normal switch. So the RV is bonding neutral and ground from the house.
The problem is, external failures (in the house) could cause loads outside the RV to path their return current via your RV (inverter's) neutral-ground bond. This can be far more amps that it was ever designed for. This is why we only bond neutral and ground in one place.

But another big problem is neutral switching. It needs to be done. On utility, you have neutral and ground separated. On inverter, the inverter bonds neutral and ground, and this isn't disconnected by a normal switch. So the RV is bonding neutral and ground from the house.
The problem is, external failures (in the house) could cause loads outside the RV to path their return current via your RV (inverter's) neutral-ground bond. This can be far more amps that it was ever designed for. This is why we only bond neutral and ground in one place.

Doing it all with 1 panel

Since this is a 120V-only RV, you could actually make it happen in a single panel, by putting the branch circuits in the same panel as the interlock. However, since the panel is using its 2-pole functionality to switch neutral, all the branch circuit breakers will need to be 2-pole also - so they can tap neutral. This will gobble up breaker spaces at twice the rate.

Fortunately on these compact panels, you can usually use tandem (or in this case quadplex breakers). I would avoid small GE panels here*.

The switched neutral also makes GFCI and AFCI breakers out of the question, but you can always put them at the first receptacle.

* unless you're very clear on how GE's double-stuff (thin/narrow) 2-pole breakers work - they're not like quads at all, and not like quads). With small panels, you'll find you can't support as many 2-pole breakers as you thought you could!