Skip to main content
12 events
when toggle format what by license comment
S Dec 2, 2020 at 13:12 history mod moved comments to chat
S Dec 2, 2020 at 13:12 comment added BMitch Comments are not for extended discussion; this conversation has been moved to chat.
Dec 1, 2020 at 17:57 comment added pstatix @MonkeyZeus It seems that Isherwoods method actually determines if they are on plane with one another because the string is never the relative measure. He suggests using a common thickness (scrap wood) and measuring the distance between the string and the joists relative to that. The string, which runs perpendicular to the joists, follows the angle of the joists. Thus, if they were out of level (diagonal) but on plane, they would all measure the same distance. The method you suggest makes them both level and flat, which doesn't require much more effort IMHO.
Dec 1, 2020 at 16:58 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0
added 146 characters in body
Dec 1, 2020 at 16:56 comment added MonkeyZeus @pstatix Yes, that would be the end result. Isherwood is saying that achieving a level ceiling could be more trouble than it's worth if a flat surface can deceive the eyes. Your current joists might already produce a flat surface as they stand but chasing your dream of a level ceiling could result in a non-flat surface which the eyes will quickly see.
Dec 1, 2020 at 16:47 comment added MonkeyZeus @pstatix A diagonal line is flat; it is not level. A flat surface is something with no bumps. A level surface is something that you can set a ball on without having the ball roll away.
Dec 1, 2020 at 16:37 comment added isherwood We're talking about averaging. If your home has settled at the foundation on one end, the entire thing is out of level. This is not unheard of, especially with older homes. In your case the difference between level and a flat average may be negligible.
Dec 1, 2020 at 15:33 comment added FreeMan @pstatix you can find the lowest spot on the ceiling then shim everything down to that spot. If however, you have 1 spot that's, say, 1" lower, that means that you have to move everything down to that level. If the rest of the ceiling is with 5/8", it may be better to trim the joist by 3/8" to bring it up to that level, then bring other spots down. You'll still end up flat, but higher and fewer shims.
Dec 1, 2020 at 15:04 comment added isherwood I certainly don't use them that way. If a person checks level and finds that the building is out of level 1/2" across the room, but the joists are otherwise on plane, would they spend massive effort correcting that? I sure wouldn't.
Dec 1, 2020 at 15:02 comment added pstatix To your last comment, isn't finding the ceiling low point and adding straps to be level with that point across the room, ultimately going to result in a flat ceiling? I'm sure "level" and "flat" are used interchangeably, albeit incorrectly? I planned to identify this low spot and have all straps be level to that height, creating a flat surface before drywalling. For spots that need it, using shims between the joist and strap to lower the strapping to the low spot.
Dec 1, 2020 at 14:57 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0
added 11 characters in body
Dec 1, 2020 at 14:52 history answered isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0