Timeline for Chlorinate hot water heater
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
8 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aug 20, 2019 at 0:02 | vote | accept | Eaten by a Grue | ||
| Aug 19, 2019 at 23:38 | comment | added | Ed Beal | Ok brain fart on my part I read that 2x and over looked it both times. You will have to flush all your plumbing and run enough hot water to get the chlorine in the tank. But you should check the anode if it is gone and there is electrolysis starting in the tank it could be the source of the smell and say good bye to your tank in a short length of time so why not just put it in the tank to start with no guess work on how much made it and less possible damage to the filter housing. | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 19:35 | comment | added | Eaten by a Grue | Ed, I'm referring to this very post. The entire last paragraph explains about the filter housing — perhaps you missed that part. In regards to potential damage, it appears you're correct. The sumps are typical blue housings made from polypropylene which is not particularly fond of chlorine: calpaclab.com/polypropylene-chemical-compatibility-chart — nevertheless, the bleach would only be in contact with the housing for a few seconds before getting flushed through. I've bleached out my undersink housings before without any detrimental effect and with a great degree of success. | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 19:06 | comment | added | Ed Beal | As you did not link your original post I had no way of knowing you had a filter unit. But I would still use the anode port. A strong chlorine solution can damage the plastic and o-ring components of a filter system with more flushing necessary to get the chlorine out of the cold water side and you would not be inspecting the anode (possibly the cause if already eaten away) | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 18:36 | comment | added | Eaten by a Grue | What about adding it through the filter housing per my original post? You offered good advice here but did not answer the question. | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 18:21 | comment | added | Ed Beal | I guess I would be interested in your different ideas. Pulling the anode would be safer leak wise than the inlet or outlet lines to the heater, I guess you could even pump it in from the drain valve at the bottom of the tank so I fail to see what other advice I could provide as these are the only ways to add and the anode would be the easiest plus the fact that they should be on a routine inspection schedule. | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 18:11 | comment | added | Eaten by a Grue | Thanks, not the answer I was looking for but after reading a bit about anode rods, I think this is sound advice. Apparently a zinc anode rod will help with the bacteria as well. | |
| Aug 19, 2019 at 17:12 | history | answered | Ed Beal | CC BY-SA 4.0 |