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Oct 30, 2023 at 18:05 vote accept amphibient
Jul 11, 2019 at 14:17 comment added jesse_b @isherwood: the internet is full of bad advice. In reality you shouldn't need any lubricant at all for any non-hardened/low carbon metal, but when you do need lubricant it is important to use the correct lubricant. When you use regular oil all it is going to do is slightly aid in cooling but it's going to severely hurt your ability to actually cut. At that point you might as well just use water.
Jul 11, 2019 at 13:19 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0
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Jul 11, 2019 at 13:18 comment added isherwood I'll just leave these here. 1 2
Jul 11, 2019 at 13:14 comment added jesse_b Put some cutting fluid on a two pieces of metal and rub them together, then put regular oil on them and try again. One will feel smooth and the other will feel like sandpaper. Cutting fluid "lubricates" but with friction to allow for a proper cut
Jul 10, 2019 at 21:35 comment added isherwood I'm not sure we can say that as a blanket statement. Cutting oils are intended to lubricate. Other types of cutting fluids may not be. For our household purposes, household oil should do, mostly since it'll reduce the effect of binding. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_fluid#Lubrication
Jul 10, 2019 at 19:56 comment added jesse_b Please note there is a huge difference between cutting oil and other oils. Other oils will reduce friction which is not what you want for cutting/drilling. Cutting oil is really the only oil that should be used for drilling.
Jul 9, 2019 at 18:03 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0
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Jul 9, 2019 at 18:02 comment added isherwood Slowing down will possibly help. With a drill press, sure. By hand, slowing down means a longer time spent drilling, which increases operator fatigue and therefore the likelihood of binding, which dramatically increases heat. Sometimes just getting it punched through quickly is actually better.
Jul 9, 2019 at 17:59 comment added dwizum This is a good answer that could be improved by mentioning drill speed. Most drills homeowners are likely to own are way too fast on their fastest speed, and a lot of inexperienced DIY'ers naturally just squeeze that trigger all the way and always run at the fastest speed. Slowing down will definitely help!
Jul 9, 2019 at 14:51 comment added Chris Stratton A big reason for the stepping up of sizes is that the drilling speed can only be right for one point on the flute, inside of that it is too low and outside too high. By using a sequence of drills you cut each region of the hole closer to the ideal settings, and you accomplish the "never going to be right" of the center of the hole at a drill size where you can keep the pressure (force in a small area) high.
Jul 9, 2019 at 14:41 comment added isherwood I find that centering is maintained with this approach (within fairly tight tolerances). Not so much with wood due to varying density.
Jul 9, 2019 at 14:34 comment added Keeta - reinstate Monica Please note it is harder to keep the hole at the right place when you step the hole so many times. It is also more likely for your hole to "triangle" with a two flute bit.
Jul 9, 2019 at 12:51 history edited isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0
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Jul 9, 2019 at 9:08 comment added Stian They won't lose temper by quenching, if they are hot enough that the temper will be affected it is already too late and no cooling except specifically the one they were made with is sufficient to avoid damage...
Jul 8, 2019 at 21:59 comment added user1946891 I'd skip the 1/8 bit and use a punch to make a dimple where you need to drill. Don't run the drill at its fastest speed and NEVER put it in water to cool, sure it will get hot but that's okay use plenty of used motor oil. I think isherwood is right on the mark though.
Jul 8, 2019 at 17:03 comment added J Crosby The only thing I would add, is to use quality bits. The cheaper brands (e.g. Powerfist, Ryobi, etc.) simply don't use hard enough steel to cut steel effectively.
Jul 8, 2019 at 14:53 history answered isherwood CC BY-SA 4.0